Maybe the best bouldering area in the world.

 

50 km south of Paris, Fontainebleau is a forest close to the town of Fontainebleau.

The boulders rock is sandstone, problems require footwork, body position and general trickery.
There is still potential for development.

 

Getting there.
Fly to one of the Paris airports (Beauvais with Ryanair).

A) Rent a car: as always, to obtain the best price, book it from low cost airlines at the same time you book flight.

Beauvais airport, more than an hour north of Paris, is the most inconvenient for Font. From there you get a bus to Paris and then metro to Gare de Lyon for the train to Font. Driving would be a pain because you have to go through Paris.

Orly airport, with Easyjet, is super convenient for Font (20 minute drive - small, quick in and out airport).

B) Without a car, get to Gare du Lyon with bus from airport.
From Gare du Lyon you pick up the train to Bois le Roi and Font.

It's possible to go to climb around Fontainbleau without a car, but is much better having at least a bike, that You can hire from the train station in Fontainebleau.

It is generally flat terrain, but:
- the areas are pretty spread out
- You have crashpad
- You can reach by bike just the following big but limited areas
From:
- Fontainebleau train station to Mont Ussy and Cassepot sectors, in about 30 min biking (and You can stay at the Etap Hotel, 100 m down the main road from the train station)
- Bois le Roi train station (just before Fontainebleau arriving from Paris) to Rocher Canon and Rocher St. Germain sectors (about 20 min biking)



CRASHPADS TO RENT (useful if You fly low cost to Paris)

1) ask directly to Neil Hart, the manager of "Maison bleau"

2) In a "gite" in Recloses (10, rue des ecoles 77760 recloses)
1 week 25 € one crashpad
1 weekend 10 € one crashpad
Not more than 5 crashpads
Discounts if You take more than 3.

  

To sleep:

- "Maison bleau", managed by 9b member Neil Hart
The Maisonbleau is in the heart of Fontainebleau, just minutes away from the major climbing, 2.5 km from Malesherbes.

- "gite" in Recloses (10, rue des ecoles 77760 recloses)

- other gites (Fontainebleau tourist office: +33 (0) 1 60749999. Websurf: Gites de France).

- Campsites
* La Musardiere at Milly la Foret, 91490 (+33(0)164989191) (with a pool)
* Les Pres at Grez sur Loing 77880 (+33(0)164457275).
Apparently there is a free one near the access road to the Hippodrome de Sol racetrack on the road from Melun to Font (on the right after Rocher St. Germain on the way to Font).

- Hotels:
* Formule 1 is the cheapest.
* Hotel Etap in Avon (near the train station) (+33(0)892680794)
* Hotel Ibis in the center of Font (+33(0)164397575).


L'Etranger - 85 days in Font from pascal brown on Vimeo.


To eat
- a Centre Commercial Carrefour at Villiers-en-Biere (not too far from Bas Cuvier)
It is off the RN7 in the direction of Paris.
There are also a Decathlon store (selling climbing necessities) and other shops and cafes.

- Fontainebleau and Milly La Foret both offer bistros and eateries to suit most people's tastes and pockets.


Best period: spring and autumn.
Many hard boulders were climbed in summer: it can be hot and humid, but You can climb early and late.
Winter is cold, even if it can have perfect conditions.
You can expect to have some rain at any time, but many areas dry extremely quickly.


A nice and long VIDEO about bouldering in Bleau.


Get french map of the forest (GN 2417OT TOP25 1:25000) at a petrol station in Font.
Free basic topo
:



Warning:
don't leave anything in the car, there is a high chance it will get stolen.
Leave the car highly visible in a busy parking area.
Apremont near the restaurant and Cuvier in view of the road are ok.


At the weekend, SOeScalade runs a resoling van at the Roche aux Sabots parking .


Links:
- bleau.info
- ukc


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Luna, like a dream

Posted by 9b on January 7, 2016 at 5:00pm 0 Comments

Italiano qui.

(photo by Mike Hill)







convince.jpg

 

Yes Yan.

 

At first, your idea was about going on bolting around Baunei.

 

Then, I wrote You the Dorgali Municipality is going to rebolt around Cala Gonone.

I gave you these informations: after…

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Giuliano Cameroni: strong fingers, a kind mother, 16 years old ...

Posted by 9b on February 13, 2014 at 7:30pm 0 Comments

... and a future of hard boulders and (short) routes !

 

 

 

 

35 minutes.

This is the driving distance between Giuliano's house and the closiest boulders.

Not so bad.

The only problem is that when you are 16 years old, You can't drive the car.

No worries, if you have a kind mother, problem is solved  :-)

She drives him to the rocks, so he can climb something like this, then, after bouldering, he takes the train to come back home.

 

Ciao Giuliano,

how are you so strong ?! How much do you train ?

CIAO :-)

I CLIMB ON BOULDERS ABOUT 4 TIMES A WEEK, ON PLASTIC NOT SO MUCH, WHEN IT RAINS

 

Where do you climb usually ?

I CLIMB IN TICINO, MAGIC WOOD, SUSTEN, ... SOMETIMES IN FONT AND DURING THE HOLIDAYS OUT OF EUROPE TOO.

 

Who are your bouldering friends ?

I CLIMB WITH FRIENDS FROM TICINO AND WALLIS. SOMETIMES WITH MY FATHER AND MY BROTHER.

 

 

How is Giuliano Cameroni as a climber…

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