Featured Discussions - 9b2024-03-29T10:12:09Zhttp://novebi.ning.com/group/flatangersportclimbing/forum/topic/list?feed=yes&xn_auth=no&featured=1Changetag:novebi.ning.com,2012-07-16:1389802:Topic:782922012-07-16T15:59:57.275Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p><a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/9bplus" target="_blank">Bolted by</a> Adam Ondra july 2012</p>
<p>First pitch:</p>
<p>20 mt</p>
<p>In the first 12 meters there is an 8b+ six moves boulder.</p>
<p><a href="http://translate.google.it/translate?sl=no&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fflatangernytt.no%2F2012%2F07%2Fverdens-beste-klatrer-i-flatanger%2F" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="http://flatangernytt.no/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Adam-Ondra_2b.jpg"></img></a> (photolink)…</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/9bplus" target="_blank">Bolted by</a> Adam Ondra july 2012</p>
<p>First pitch:</p>
<p>20 mt</p>
<p>In the first 12 meters there is an 8b+ six moves boulder.</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://translate.google.it/translate?sl=no&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fflatangernytt.no%2F2012%2F07%2Fverdens-beste-klatrer-i-flatanger%2F"><img class="align-full" src="http://flatangernytt.no/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Adam-Ondra_2b.jpg"/></a>(photolink)</p>
<p><iframe width="500" height="281" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/45805681?title=0&byline=0&color=c9ff23" frameborder="0"></iframe>
</p>
<p><object width="500" height="394" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="src" value="http://static.ning.com/socialnetworkmain/widgets/photo/slideshowplayer/slideshowplayer.swf?xn_version=3150304127"></param><param name="quality" value="high"></param><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="scale" value="noscale"></param><param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param><param name="flashvars" value="feed_url=http%3A%2F%2Fnovebi.ning.com%2Fphoto%2Fphoto%2FslideshowFeedAlbum%3Fid%3D1389802%253AAlbum%253A84248%26mtime%3D1367094395%26x%3DbvQiGlb23o6vUXUBGhaxTxRVn7SrbCFR&autoplay=1&hideShareLink=1&config_url=http%3A%2F%2Fnovebi.ning.com%2Fphoto%2Fphoto%2FshowPlayerConfig%3Fx%3DbvQiGlb23o6vUXUBGhaxTxRVn7SrbCFR%26feed_url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fnovebi.ning.com%252Fphoto%252Fphoto%252FslideshowFeedAlbum%253Fid%253D1389802%25253AAlbum%25253A84248%2526mtime%253D1367094395%2526x%253DbvQiGlb23o6vUXUBGhaxTxRVn7SrbCFR%26version%3DDEP-7932%253A411b01e_323_286_290%26theme982Version%3D36&slideshow_title=&fullsize_url=http%3A%2F%2Fnovebi.ning.com%2Fphoto%2Fphoto%2Fslideshow%3Ffeed_url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fnovebi.ning.com%252Fphoto%252Fphoto%252FslideshowFeedAlbum%253Fid%253D1389802%25253AAlbum%25253A84248%2526mtime%253D1367094395"></param><param name="pluginspage" value="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></param><embed wmode="opaque" width="500" height="394" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://static.ning.com/socialnetworkmain/widgets/photo/slideshowplayer/slideshowplayer.swf?xn_version=3150304127" quality="high" allowfullscreen="false" allowscriptaccess="never" scale="noscale" flashvars="feed_url=http%3A%2F%2Fnovebi.ning.com%2Fphoto%2Fphoto%2FslideshowFeedAlbum%3Fid%3D1389802%253AAlbum%253A84248%26mtime%3D1367094395%26x%3DbvQiGlb23o6vUXUBGhaxTxRVn7SrbCFR&autoplay=1&hideShareLink=1&config_url=http%3A%2F%2Fnovebi.ning.com%2Fphoto%2Fphoto%2FshowPlayerConfig%3Fx%3DbvQiGlb23o6vUXUBGhaxTxRVn7SrbCFR%26feed_url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fnovebi.ning.com%252Fphoto%252Fphoto%252FslideshowFeedAlbum%253Fid%253D1389802%25253AAlbum%25253A84248%2526mtime%253D1367094395%2526x%253DbvQiGlb23o6vUXUBGhaxTxRVn7SrbCFR%26version%3DDEP-7932%253A411b01e_323_286_290%26theme982Version%3D36&slideshow_title=&fullsize_url=http%3A%2F%2Fnovebi.ning.com%2Fphoto%2Fphoto%2Fslideshow%3Ffeed_url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fnovebi.ning.com%252Fphoto%252Fphoto%252FslideshowFeedAlbum%253Fid%253D1389802%25253AAlbum%25253A84248%2526mtime%253D1367094395" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" bgcolor="#"></embed> </object>
<br/><small><a href="http://novebi.ning.com/photo/photo">Find more photos like this on <em>9b</em></a></small></p>
<p>F.A. Adam ondra</p>
<p>Personal grade: 9a+/b</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>2nd pitch:</p>
<p>25 mt</p>
<p>It begins after a “pretty decent” rest.</p>
<p>In the rest, to minimize rope drag you:</p>
<p>- hang by one arm and a poor knee, tie a knot in the rope and clip it loosely to a quickdraw as a backup, then call off belay</p>
<p>- pull the rope through all the quicks so that it drops directly down to your belayer.</p>
<p>Then the route continues into an overhanging "ceiling".</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=527761807250866&set=a.101060156587702.2509.100000511548758&type=1&theater"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680518?profile=original" width="343"/></a>(Photo by <a href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=527761807250866&set=a.101060156587702.2509.100000511548758&type=1&theater" target="_blank">Petr Pavlicek</a>)</p>
<p>After the clipping you can see in the picture, there is the second crux, a 6 meters bouldery section.</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=527589940601386&set=a.101060156587702.2509.100000511548758&type=1&theater"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680648?profile=original" width="662"/></a>(Photo by <a href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=527589940601386&set=a.101060156587702.2509.100000511548758&type=1&theater" target="_blank">Petr Pavlicek</a>)</p>
<p></p>
<p>After the 2nd crux You can't recover well because the climbing is continuous all the way to the chains.</p>
<p>Adam Ondra (" <em>I found myself <a href="http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40117" target="_blank">fighting the most above this</a></em> " ) almost felt 3 metres from the anchor.</p>
<p></p>
<p>F.A. Adam Ondra (report <a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/video-bd-athlete-adam-ondra-makes-first-ascent-of-change-the-worlds-first-9b" target="_blank">here</a>).</p>
<p>personal grade: 9a</p>
<p> </p>
<p>1st + 2nd pitch:</p>
<p>55 mt</p>
<p>F.A. A Ondra (19 years old), 2012/10/04, after three weeks in summer and another two weeks in fall (about 50 tries in total).</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=527533963940317&set=a.101060156587702.2509.100000511548758&type=1&theater"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680827?profile=original" width="614"/></a>(Photo from <a href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=527533963940317&set=a.101060156587702.2509.100000511548758&type=1&theater" target="_blank">Petr Pavlicek</a>)</p>
<p></p>
<p>A description of the route from Adam Ondra <a href="http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D8391" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<p><iframe width="398" height="224" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/61040319?autoplay=1" frameborder="0"></iframe>
</p>
<p>Personal grade:</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/9bplus" target="_blank">9b +</a> (" <em>at least as hard as DURA DURA project, <a href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=526957327331314&set=a.101060156587702.2509.100000511548758&type=1&theater" target="_blank">if not even harder..</a>.</em>" ), after having climbed the following 5 9bs.</p>
<p>03/2010 <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/siuranaclimbing/forum/topics/golpe-de-estado-el-pati" target="_blank">Golpe de estado</a>, Siurana, Spain - first repeat after Chris Sharma (2008)<br/> 02/2011 <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/siuranaclimbing/forum/topics/la-capella-la-capella" target="_blank">La capella</a>, Siurana, Spain - first free ascent<br/> 03/2011 <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/olianasportclimbing/forum/topics/chaxi-raxi" target="_blank">Chaxi raxi</a>, Oliana, Spain - first free ascent<br/> 04/2011 <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/chilam-balam" target="_blank">Chilam balam</a>, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain - first repeat after Barnabé Fernandez (2003)<br/> 04/2011 <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/la-planta-de-shiva" target="_self">La planta de shiva</a>, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain - first free ascent</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://translate.google.it/translate?sl=no&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fflatangernytt.no%2F2012%2F10%2Fadam-ondra-feiret-med-venner%2F"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309681103?profile=original" width="600"/></a></p>
<p>The first interview given by Adam <a href="http://translate.google.it/translate?sl=no&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fflatangernytt.no%2F2012%2F10%2Fadam-ondra-feiret-med-venner%2F" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<p></p>
<p><iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/FodfkqfJrhQ?rel=0&wmode=opaque" frameborder="0"></iframe>
</p> Flatanger sport climbing areatag:novebi.ning.com,2011-05-27:1389802:Topic:618882011-05-27T20:45:36.873Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>Flatanger cave, called ”<strong>Hanshelleren</strong>” (Hans cave), is one of the largest in Scandinavia and with a huge potential for new routes.</p>
<p><a href="http://intheshadowofthecircus.blogspot.com/2010/08/flatanger-in-english.html" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-xOwV3pPiiw/TGUGeNXCAqI/AAAAAAAAAXw/O5lPaG6SeRE/s400/best+of+%2821+of+47%29.jpg?width=597" width="597"></img></a> Rock and scenery just amazing.</p>
<p></p>
<p>There are about 200 routes at the moment, though it's possible to bolt many more.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Free topos:</p>
<p>-…</p>
<p>Flatanger cave, called ”<strong>Hanshelleren</strong>” (Hans cave), is one of the largest in Scandinavia and with a huge potential for new routes.</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://intheshadowofthecircus.blogspot.com/2010/08/flatanger-in-english.html"><img class="align-full" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-xOwV3pPiiw/TGUGeNXCAqI/AAAAAAAAAXw/O5lPaG6SeRE/s400/best+of+%2821+of+47%29.jpg?width=597" width="597"/></a>Rock and scenery just amazing.</p>
<p></p>
<p>There are about 200 routes at the moment, though it's possible to bolt many more.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Free topos:</p>
<p>- <a href="http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Flatanger" target="_blank">1</a></p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Flatanger"><img class="align-full" src="http://www.sverigeforaren.se/images/7/7d/IMG_0845.jpg"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>To get there:</p>
<p>take a flight to Trondheim, with <a href="http://www.norwegian.com/en/flight/select-flight/?D_City=OSL&A_City=TRD&TripType=1&D_Day=11&D_Month=201106&R_Day=27&R_Month=201105&AdultCount=1&ChildCount=0&InfantCount=0" target="_blank">Norwegian</a> or <a href="http://www.flysas.com" target="_blank">SAS</a> (from <a href="http://maps.google.it/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=oslo&daddr=7517,+Norge+%28Hell%29&geocode=FUgzkgMdThGkACk58GfyYW5BRjGaHiPTX2CSfg%3BFc4cyAMdck2mACFKmzSsA_jjzw&hl=it&mra=pd&sll=61.637371,10.672635&sspn=5.442233,23.093262&ie=UTF8&ll=61.669024,10.744629&spn=5.436733,23.093262&z=6" target="_blank">Oslo</a>, for example).</p>
<p></p>
<p>15 mins <strong>walking</strong> from Trondheim Airport, you can climb in <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/hellclimbing/forum/topics/hell-sport-climbing-area" target="_blank">Hell</a>.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://maps.google.it/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Trondheim,+Norvegia&daddr=Flatanger,+Norvegia&geocode=FXPfxwMdrZ2eAClTfgNHlzFtRjHU8zyPKMj3Cw%3BFXeI1wMdTUSkACl9ayab-MxyRjFX_rflR4PLLg&hl=it&mra=ls&sll=62.206512,10.766602&sspn=5.650261,23.269043&ie=UTF8&z=8" target="_blank">From Trondheim to Flatanger</a> rent a car or, low budget, take the bus to Sjöåsen.</p>
<p>The last 50 km <a href="https://maps.google.it/maps?saddr=flatanger&daddr=Sj%C3%B8%C3%A5sen,+Nord-Tr%C3%B8ndelag,+Norvegia&hl=it&ie=UTF8&ll=64.408804,11.005554&spn=0.354729,1.058807&sll=60.601963,12.786519&sspn=12.955061,33.881836&geocode=FXeI1wMdTUSkACl9ayab-MxyRjFX_rflR4PLLg%3BFdhE1QMdOD2rACkhIHAai8ByRjEyfRSkG-WdDw&mra=pd&t=m&z=10" target="_blank">from Sjöåsen to Flatanger (map)</a>, a <a href="http://translate.google.it/translate?sl=no&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flatanger.kommune.no%2Ftransport.4526467-106755.html" target="_blank">taxi</a> charges you <strong>9</strong> Euro to bring you to a farm where you can stay with your tent (it will became a real camping soon).</p>
<p><strong>After arrived, You don't need a car</strong>, the cave is 20 min walking from the farm.</p>
<p> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/fedorian/7443108640/" title="Untitled by Dag Stuan, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7260/7443108640_fa1235faeb.jpg" alt="Untitled" height="333" width="500"/></a></p>
<p> You can reach a <strong>supermarket</strong>, 4 km from the farm, getting a ride from the farmer or other climbers.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>If you have a car, You can:</p>
<p>- stay in <a href="https://maps.google.it/maps?saddr=flatanger&daddr=Lauvsnes,+Norge&hl=it&ll=64.489951,10.839386&spn=0.176839,0.529404&sll=64.4088,11.00555&sspn=0.354729,1.058807&geocode=FXeI1wMdTUSkACl9ayab-MxyRjFX_rflR4PLLg%3BFYUz2AMdizqmACkXlBdEEM5yRjHfU2u5BKmMYg&oq=Lauvsnes&mra=ls&t=m&z=11" target="_blank">Lauvsnes</a> village, at Zanzi-bar</p>
<p>- have better rest days driving around to go fishing or hiking.</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>This huge cave and other surrounding rocks is Norway best high level climbing area, with very long overhanging routes.</p>
<p>According to Magnus Midtboe (<a href="http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/?p=385" target="_blank">blog</a> and <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62398" target="_blank">interview</a>), quite futuristic<a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62398" target="_blank"></a>:</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/?p=385"><img class="align-full" src="http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/wp-content/gallery/hanshellern/1306235509000_no_name_3807330698x698r.jpg"/></a></p>
<p>"<em>The ground is following the wall in the beginning, so if you have a 100 meter long rope you can maybe get out the whole cave just changing ropes one time. We need some long slings as well, to avoid rope drag</em>".</p>
<p>A new Norwegian <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/chilam-balam" target="_blank">Chilam Balam</a> soon ?</p>
<p> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/fedorian/7443605852/" title="Untitled by Dag Stuan, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7270/7443605852_26739c7768_b.jpg" alt="Untitled" height="683" width="1024"/></a></p>