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[9b]

Bolted by Adam Ondra july 2012

First pitch:

20 mt

In the first 12 meters there is an 8b+ six moves boulder.

(photolink)

Find more photos like this on 9b

F.A. Adam ondra

Personal grade: 9a+/b

2nd pitch:

25 mt

It begins after a “pretty decent” rest.

In the rest, to minimize rope drag you:

- hang by one arm and a poor knee, tie a knot in the rope and clip it loosely to a quickdraw as a backup, then call off belay

- pull the rope through all the quicks so that it drops directly down to your belayer.

Then the route continues into an overhanging "ceiling".

(Photo by Petr Pavlicek)

After the clipping you can see in the picture, there is the second crux, a 6 meters bouldery section.

(Photo by Petr Pavlicek)

After the 2nd crux You can't recover well because the climbing is continuous all the way to the chains.

Adam Ondra (" I found myself fighting the most above this " ) almost felt 3 metres from the anchor.

F.A. Adam Ondra (report here).

personal grade: 9a

 

1st + 2nd pitch:

55 mt

F.A. A Ondra (19 years old), 2012/10/04, after three weeks in summer and another two weeks in fall (about 50 tries in total).

(Photo from Petr Pavlicek)

A description of the route from Adam Ondra here.

Personal grade:

9b + (" at least as hard as DURA DURA project, if not even harder..." ), after having climbed the following 5 9bs.

03/2010 Golpe de estado, Siurana, Spain - first repeat after Chris Sharma (2008)
02/2011 La capella, Siurana, Spain - first free ascent
03/2011 Chaxi raxi, Oliana, Spain - first free ascent
04/2011 Chilam balam, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain - first repeat after Barnabé Fernandez (2003)
04/2011 La planta de shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain - first free ascent

The first interview given by Adam here.