Red River Gorge Discussions - 9b2024-03-28T08:24:24Zhttp://novebi.ning.com/group/redrivergorgeclimbing/forum?feed=yes&xn_auth=noAdam Ondra projecttag:novebi.ning.com,2013-10-11:1389802:Topic:901492013-10-11T19:08:45.772Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>Four 8b+ boulder problems stacked together.</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://imgur.com/a/M2JEf#JZd1G"><img class="align-full" src="http://i.imgur.com/JZd1Gh.jpg"/></a></p>
<p>Four 8b+ boulder problems stacked together.</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://imgur.com/a/M2JEf#JZd1G"><img class="align-full" src="http://i.imgur.com/JZd1Gh.jpg"/></a></p> Southern Smoke Direct, Bob Marleytag:novebi.ning.com,2012-10-30:1389802:Topic:799142012-10-30T16:32:41.210Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p><font><a href="http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-taylor-southern-smoke-direct-first-ascent-515a" target="_blank">F.A. Adam Taylor</a>, november 2011, after 2 years of trying<br></br> <br></br> <br></br> Direct start (about 8b boulder) to Southern Smoke.</font> <font><br></br></font></p>
<p><font><img alt="" height="504" src="http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/e74cda879042_DBC1/new_route.jpg" title="Southern Smoke" width="379"></img></font></p>
<p><font><font>(…</font></font></p>
<p><font><a href="http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-taylor-southern-smoke-direct-first-ascent-515a" target="_blank">F.A. Adam Taylor</a>, november 2011, after 2 years of trying<br/> <br/> <br/> Direct start (about 8b boulder) to Southern Smoke.</font> <font><br/></font></p>
<p><font><img title="Southern Smoke" src="http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/e74cda879042_DBC1/new_route.jpg" alt="" height="504" width="379"/></font></p>
<p><font><font>( <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2012/10/adam-ondra-flashes-southern-smoke-direct-red-river-gorge/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29" target="_blank">Old Joe Kinder photo</a> showing Southern Smoke Direct as the dotted line that leads into “New Joint”</font>)<br/></font></p>
<p><font>Suggested grade: 9a+<br/> <br/></font></p>
<p><font>2nd ascent: Adam Ondra flash (2012/10/29).<br/> <br/> Using a sequence for the bottom boulder problem easier than that one Taylor used.</font> <font><br/> Sheltered from a pouring rain.<br/> <br/> Suggested grade: 9a, "benchmark".<br/> <br/> 1st 9a flash in sport climbing history.<br/> <br/> Daniel Woods Jon Cardwell witnessed the ascent.<br/> They have been working the route and, together with Cedric Lachat, confirm the grade is 9a.<br/> <br/> The ascent was filmed and it will be published by the French TV Journal<br/> <br/> <br/> <br/></font></p> Last of the Bohicanstag:novebi.ning.com,2011-03-24:1389802:Topic:595452011-03-24T13:13:01.419Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>Sasha Digiulian onsight</p>
<p> </p>
<p>8b</p>
<p>Sasha Digiulian onsight</p>
<p> </p>
<p>8b</p> Omah beachtag:novebi.ning.com,2011-03-22:1389802:Topic:594412011-03-22T22:51:55.180Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>F.A. Bill Ramsey</p>
<p> </p>
<p>According to her Facebook profile, <a href="http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/?p=280" target="_blank">onsighted today by Sasha DiGiulian</a></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309674291?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309674291?profile=original" width="592"></img></a> The first American female onsight of an 8b+ (Katie Brown was the first woman to onsight Omaha Beach in 1999: but then it was considered 8b).</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>45m,…</p>
<p>F.A. Bill Ramsey</p>
<p> </p>
<p>According to her Facebook profile, <a href="http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/?p=280" target="_blank">onsighted today by Sasha DiGiulian</a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309674291?profile=original"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309674291?profile=original" width="592"/></a>The first American female onsight of an 8b+ (Katie Brown was the first woman to onsight Omaha Beach in 1999: but then it was considered 8b).</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>45m, steep</p>
<p> </p>
<p>8b+</p> 24-Karatstag:novebi.ning.com,2011-01-14:1389802:Topic:538612011-01-14T17:38:28.046Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
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<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/18752985">24-Karats, 5.14c</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/arcteryx">ARC'TERYX</a> on…</p>
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<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/18752985">24-Karats, 5.14c</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/arcteryx">ARC'TERYX</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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5.14c Pure Imagination, Chocolate Factorytag:novebi.ning.com,2010-12-16:1389802:Topic:522812010-12-16T17:24:59.471Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>Bolted by Kenny Barker.<br></br>F.A. Jonathan Siegrist, november, 2010.<br></br> <object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" height="5063" width="9000"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=17863785&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"></param><embed allowfullscreen="false" allowscriptaccess="never" height="5063" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=17863785&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="9000" wmode="opaque"></embed> </object>
</p>
<p> </p>
<p>2nd a. Adam Taylor, spring of 2011.</p>
<p> …</p>
<p><br></br></p>
<p>Bolted by Kenny Barker.<br/>F.A. Jonathan Siegrist, november, 2010.<br/> <object height="5063" width="9000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=17863785&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"></param><embed wmode="opaque" height="5063" width="9000" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=17863785&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" allowscriptaccess="never" allowfullscreen="false" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed> </object>
</p>
<p> </p>
<p>2nd a. Adam Taylor, spring of 2011.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><br/> <br/>
9a</p> Demon Seedtag:novebi.ning.com,2010-10-19:1389802:Topic:499112010-10-19T13:37:59.376Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<object height="2813" width="5000"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=15843768&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"></param><embed allowfullscreen="false" allowscriptaccess="never" height="2813" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=15843768&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="5000" wmode="opaque"></embed> <param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param></object>
<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/15843768">Demon Seed</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2031248">Sean Stewart</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.…</p>
<br></br>
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<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/15843768">Demon Seed</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2031248">Sean Stewart</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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<a href="http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=route&id=2249">7c</a> The Golden Ticket, Chocolate Factorytag:novebi.ning.com,2009-10-23:1389802:Topic:344132009-10-23T17:55:28.592Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>F.A. Adam Taylor, October 18, 2009<br></br> <object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" height="300" width="400"><param name="flashvars" value="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=941cce369d&photo_id=3522287589"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="src" value="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377"></param><param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><embed allowfullscreen="false" allowscriptaccess="never" bgcolor="#000000" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=941cce369d&photo_id=3522287589" height="300" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" wmode="opaque"></embed> </object>
<br></br> Taylor shared his thoughts in <a href="http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=12163&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15&sid=1d154187772933ef8daaea1f3151d57e" target="_blank">RedRiverclimbing forum</a>:<br></br> " <i>As for the route itself… it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the…</i></p>
<p>F.A. Adam Taylor, October 18, 2009<br/> <object width="400" height="300" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="flashvars" value="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=941cce369d&photo_id=3522287589"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="src" value="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377"></param><param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><embed wmode="opaque" width="400" height="300" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=941cce369d&photo_id=3522287589" allowscriptaccess="never" allowfullscreen="false" bgcolor="#000000"></embed> </object>
<br/> Taylor shared his thoughts in <a href="http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=12163&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15&sid=1d154187772933ef8daaea1f3151d57e" target="_blank">RedRiverclimbing forum</a>:<br/> " <i>As for the route itself… it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren’t pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.<br/> As for the grade, I do not know… It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating</i>".</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/Adam_Taylor-RRGChocoFactory.jpg"/></p>
<p><i>Photo by <a href="http://www.nilesman.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Niles Barnes</a></i><br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> 5.14d?</p> Golden Boytag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-25:1389802:Topic:233442008-11-25T17:45:45.268Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
Lynn Hill onsight Nov 08:<br />
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<br></br><a href="http://vimeo.com/2340253">Lynn Hill 5.13b onsight Nov 08</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user589107">joe hedge</a> on…
Lynn Hill onsight Nov 08:<br />
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<br/><a href="http://vimeo.com/2340253">Lynn Hill 5.13b onsight Nov 08</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user589107">joe hedge</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
5.13b Southern Smoketag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-25:1389802:Topic:233262008-11-25T08:24:52.599Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p><a href="http://www.joekindkid.com/?p=1132">F.A. Joe Kinder</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" height="224" width="398"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=14980904&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"></param><embed allowfullscreen="false" allowscriptaccess="never" height="224" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=14980904&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="398" wmode="opaque"></embed> <param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param></object>
</p>
<p> </p>
<p>8c+ /…</p>
<p><a href="http://www.joekindkid.com/?p=1132">F.A. Joe Kinder</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><object height="224" width="398" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=14980904&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"></param><embed wmode="opaque" height="224" width="398" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=14980904&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" allowscriptaccess="never" allowfullscreen="false" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed> <param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param></object>
</p>
<p> </p>
<p>8c+ / 5.14c</p>