Sonia's Posts - 9b2024-03-29T01:41:50ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Soniahttp://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2519560267?profile=RESIZE_48X48&width=48&height=48&crop=1%3A1http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blog/feed?user=32r7cki572vzi&xn_auth=noI suck!tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-04-30:1389802:BlogPost:143642008-04-30T14:38:51.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
as a blogger, I SUCK!! OK, I even admit that in the past I posted under dates different than when I wrote the posts, but I am coming clean. . . I haven't blogged in weeks!<br />
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Well, on the plus side. . . I healed myself in 3 weeks. . . I swear! my docs are in denial!<br />
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So after the break, I spent 3 days with my friends (they let me boulder at their gym with my splint) and then I headed off. I drove, true, and maybe I scrambled and rappelled to check bolts, etc. . . but I didn't climb. . . I checked…
as a blogger, I SUCK!! OK, I even admit that in the past I posted under dates different than when I wrote the posts, but I am coming clean. . . I haven't blogged in weeks!<br />
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Well, on the plus side. . . I healed myself in 3 weeks. . . I swear! my docs are in denial!<br />
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So after the break, I spent 3 days with my friends (they let me boulder at their gym with my splint) and then I headed off. I drove, true, and maybe I scrambled and rappelled to check bolts, etc. . . but I didn't climb. . . I checked out Ul Bawi, then I went to Jeonju and chilled and worked (and looked for a summer job. . . realizing this is going to take a while. . .) and then went to Maisan!! I swear I didn't climb! My belayers totally hauled me up to take photos!! Sunday, I jumarred! And got some fun video!! MY GOD, Maisan during peak cherry blossom season is heaven on earth! it's so friggin beautiful!! I was psyched to run into my Korean teacher, Kyeong-young, with her family, enjoying the beautiful festival. And Sunday climbing with Rick, Dave, Mike and Heidi (OK, so H and I didn't climb!) just hanging out and having soooooo much fun. was incredible!!<br />
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And then--well-- my city is getting a climbing wall. . . it was decided about a year after I started submitting my suggestion (much lesser Korean cities sported climbing walls. . . Jeonju was a provincial capital with none!!). . anyway, the wall is built-- and it is amazing!! They are still building the sport park around it. . . and still paving the roads there. . . should be finished in Summer!<br />
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And I got to check out a new climbing area. . . still in conception, but coming along nicely!!! The Jeonju climbers found and developed it!<br />
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And then heading to Mokpo, and chillin' with my homegirl Ricky. . . partying a bit too much. . . but damn, for some reason, her kitchen was magic for me. . . esp when I made Dal and curried veggies. . . samish recipe as usual, but everything hit the right notes. . . was oh-my-god good!! Sadly, as usual I improvised and so may never hit that again! Still, at least I made a lot in that go!! I had similar luck with French Onion Soup and marinated Brie for "French Night". . . now Mokpo folks all think I am an amazing chef, but it's really Ricky's magic kitchen!going going argh pftttag:novebi.ning.com,2008-04-09:1389802:BlogPost:130812008-04-09T03:00:00.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
so I haven't posted in a bit (probably no one really reading this anyway!) but things were starting to come together-- climbing a bit and getting some work done! From Munsusan in Ulsan, I went to Miryang Saturday to get Ian and Marissa and climb at Bueongsae Bawi. . . can't say the weather was great-- very overcast and quite a wind! but it was good to get on such a beautiful rock, and great to have Ian rope-gunning! Unfortunately, after topping out on one of the climbs, I was lowering and I hit…
so I haven't posted in a bit (probably no one really reading this anyway!) but things were starting to come together-- climbing a bit and getting some work done! From Munsusan in Ulsan, I went to Miryang Saturday to get Ian and Marissa and climb at Bueongsae Bawi. . . can't say the weather was great-- very overcast and quite a wind! but it was good to get on such a beautiful rock, and great to have Ian rope-gunning! Unfortunately, after topping out on one of the climbs, I was lowering and I hit the rock a little hard. Ouch! I think I sprained or bruised my foot. Right under the 2nd to smallest toe-- so not in a terribly bad place.<br />
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In any event, I didn't let it stop my climbing. I iced it the next day, but I did walk quite a bit Monday, visiting Uksukol, a new climbing area walking distance (about 20 minutes) from Ian's, then World Cup Stadium climbing wall (another hour or so on foot. . . why am I walking with a "sprained" foot. . . no simple answer? I am stupid? My chronic arthritus from an old compound fracture of the talus makes any new pain still secondary? Anyway, from there I went to the local gym, but more to ask about the local climbs (the folks at Challenger were very very helpful!!) than to climb. My foot was definitely swelling a bit.<br />
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Tuesday, Ian and I went out in the morning and did some climbs in Yeongyeong-dong, in NW Daegu. With my shoe on, it didn't really hurt to climb! Wed, I went to Uiseong, camped near the amazing dinosaur/natural history museum and probably hiked toooooo much-- never finding the climbs, but finding a super-cool traditional village to hang out in and look around, photograph! Thursday PM I went to Wonju and visited my old friend Chun Jin-taek's new gym, BoltRock (or BRock)-- bouldering around a bit, but again, the foot wasn't handling shoes too well. I explained the sprain, and told him about the meet and Greet that weekend at Kanhyon (the first place I ever climbed outdoors in Korea, the place where I sent my first 11d, and one of the nicest and easiest to access crags in Korea).<br />
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Things were going pretty well. I am starting to get photos, get some stuff done! I was kinda taking time off for the Meet and Greet, which for the first time in a long time boasted great weather and huge crowds! I showed up a bit early and went across from Kanhyon Station where I got wifi. I kept running into this administrative building for water (hot for my coffee, then to fill up water. . . water filters are common in public buildings in Korea!) for the bathrooms. A few folks came outside to see what I was doing and I explained about my book (Wonju tourist info maps and books actually promote Kanhyon as a rock-climbing destination) and this weekend's foreign climbers Meet and Greet. One of the officials came out to present me (in ceremonial style) with ginseng drinks for 20! This is bizarre, and yet somehow typical of Korea! Before heading bcak to the resort, I videotaped some campaigners (it's local election season) in their matching blue (I almost fit in) doing their dance moves to their candidate (#2)'s campaign songs! Pretty crazy, but as good as anything that coes out of the radio here.<br />
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Friday there was maybe 20 foreigners? My foot felt OK and I led some climbs, did a multi-pitch, helped set up our camp (on the far end of the resort!) Then something went wrong. Friday I did one easy climb to a bit of pain. I stumbled a bit walking and my foot swelled too much for climbing shoes. Stupid sprain! I really don't like this left foot! With it's lack of mobility it's always getting re-injured in new places! Still I was social, just laid off the climbing. Did a little fire twirling. . .Sunday, the swelling was worse and I was beginning to suspect more than a sprain. Unfortunately out medic never did show up. . . Monday, Jin-taek's wife Su-nam took me to a bone clinic for x-rays and I can't say I was uber-surprised to see I had broken the only middle metatarcel that I didn't break last May! It was pretty clear in the x-ray, even mildly displaced. . . $130 later I had a nice splint, and was told to do nothing for 3 days-- then 4 weeks in the cast. . . forcing some replanning.<br />
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The worst thing is, with my ugly avascular ankle, I had to beg the x-ray technicians to x-ray the new fracture. . . they took 2 (of 4) x-rays that didn't even include the break! The doctor even focused more on the old break, pointing out all the degeneration and offering me cortisone shots and the like! I'm sitting there like "Dude-- I am so over that ankle! That was like, 8 years ago. . . see this break. . . that is causing the swelling that prohibits me from putting on my climbing shoes and doing this book. . ."<br />
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I found myself negotiating with the doctor. I got him down to 3 days of rest elevation, and 4 weeks in the splint. 1.5 days later I managed to get in some bouldering at a gym (as the Korean friends I am staying with recently opened the gym! and I almost avoided that foot altogether!) This sucks!! it doesn't even really hurt!! Doesn't that count for anything!?!?!<br />
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To top it off, my camera (which was working Sat PM. . . was not Sun AM. . . I assumed it was some sand in the lens. . . but whatever, after several of us trying to "fix" it. . . it's going to take $105 and 3 days for it to heal as well!!)Has it been a WEEK?tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-30:1389802:BlogPost:124012008-03-30T07:03:44.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
Wow. . . so back to Munsusan during the week-- Dave sent his 11d project 4th try! I belayed his last two tries. . .a bit dramatic on the send-- pulling up rope, dropping it, yelling for me to "take" but just the slack (he was above the bolt!!) but an awesome send, and he deserved the rest-day Thursday. I spent a few work-days at the crags, and visited the gyms in town. Oh Haeng-sun, whom we met last weekend, met me one evening for a chat/workout. I'll have to talk to her when I return to Ulsan.…
Wow. . . so back to Munsusan during the week-- Dave sent his 11d project 4th try! I belayed his last two tries. . .a bit dramatic on the send-- pulling up rope, dropping it, yelling for me to "take" but just the slack (he was above the bolt!!) but an awesome send, and he deserved the rest-day Thursday. I spent a few work-days at the crags, and visited the gyms in town. Oh Haeng-sun, whom we met last weekend, met me one evening for a chat/workout. I'll have to talk to her when I return to Ulsan. Her English is decent, and as of last month, she's the first woman climbing gym manager (I know of) in Korea!! I couldn't believe she's 49! She looks absolutely amazing, no older than me, and she climbs hard 11s!! probably some 12's!<br />
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Sat I headed out to Miryang, picking up Ian and Marissa there, and heading to Bueongsae Rock, for some long steep stuff. . . well, the easier stuff that I tried wasn't as long, and dang it was cold and sunless! On the way back to Daegu, it rained, but I have a lot to do this week in Daegu before heading to Wonju (early) for the Meet and Greet!<br />
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I am kinda sick of these cold, sunless days!! And the rainy weekends. . . GRRR. I need good photos!!<br />
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So no major happenings this week, except being on the periferal of dramas (not unlike Busan!) that do not include me!! Unfortunately, I don't really have the time or energy to "help" my friend in Busan, and I am trying to be in the none-of-my-business mode in Ulsan. . . that said, spending time with a (newly)-21 year old from Ohio has been enlightening, and fun in small doses!climb write belaytag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-26:1389802:BlogPost:123812008-03-26T09:00:00.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
well, busy busy busy. . . Sat a bunch of folks met up for some climbing at Daeryokbong on Geumjeongsan. Dave from Gunsan tured 21 on Sunday, and along with Mike from Osan, was starting a week-long trip thru Korea. Rick, Dalton and Colby (with a friend, Tom) came out, as did locals Dave and Natalie (whom I met at the Meet and Greet) and Heather from Ulsan. The local Busan Climbers and PNU Alpine Club were out as well, and were able to help me match all the climbs up. Sunday it rained-- so I did…
well, busy busy busy. . . Sat a bunch of folks met up for some climbing at Daeryokbong on Geumjeongsan. Dave from Gunsan tured 21 on Sunday, and along with Mike from Osan, was starting a week-long trip thru Korea. Rick, Dalton and Colby (with a friend, Tom) came out, as did locals Dave and Natalie (whom I met at the Meet and Greet) and Heather from Ulsan. The local Busan Climbers and PNU Alpine Club were out as well, and were able to help me match all the climbs up. Sunday it rained-- so I did more research and writing stuff, as well as working on getting my notes into the computer! And I posted the other climbs I visited on KOTR. Monday I went back to Geumjeongsan to finish taking photos and getting beta for Buchae Bawi. The friend I am staying with is having lots of issues and I am not sure I am in a good position to help. . .<br />
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So Tuesday, I drive out early to Ulsan and meet Mike and Dave (and Heather until she goes to work) for some climbing. It's interesting rock, and lots of locals out on a beautiul day! A lot of folks about my age, and two incredibly strong women, who give me good beta on the gyms. Camping at night, but I lock my keys in the car. mike offers to open it if I can find a coat hanger, and voila, the shop ajumma has one all bent straight to hang up the trash bag. I explain my need and she gets a hammer and bends it straight for me! Mike works it a bit, and finally by prying the door open a bit, is able to grab the key and fit it through! YES! I am proud of Cha cha doing all these off-road trails. She's being really good!!<br />
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Wednesday, more climbing. Dave is working on an 11d. I belay, as he goes for it, but maybe doesn't rest enough and rushes a move, slapping and. . . off. A bit later, he's back. . . I got him. . . he ads the drama of pulling rope, dropping it and yelling for me to :"take up slack" but not to pull him off. . . OK, I'm watching. . . come on. . . yes! A send and Dave is having a good day now!! Tomorrow is a rest day (I'll visit local gyms). We manage to pack all the gear and the guys into the car, and head into town. I can see out the back, but Dave is my right "eye". He also has to lift his back and twist as I shift gears. We drive around town until we are just sooo hungry we pull over for pizza. Not the greatest, but edible, and at this point. . . once satiated, we find Heather's. . . these guys are not used to car directions. It's been an interesting time for me, hanging out with these kids. They can be pretty funny! At any rate, I am getting a cchimchilbang tonight and soaking!!Productivity!! warning: post contains reflections and tangentstag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-23:1389802:BlogPost:122812008-03-23T08:55:07.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
Well, things finally got ultra productive!! I managed to find the areas north of Tongyeong pretty easily. The young woman at the information center (where I added to my hefty map collection) in Tongyeong had given me a general area yesterday. She helped me find the myeon-- a rural administrative district in Korea-- on the map. Now I was on the main road, and as soon as I entered Gwnagdo-myeon, I saw the Myeon office. I have had pretty good luck stopping at administrative offices for informtion…
Well, things finally got ultra productive!! I managed to find the areas north of Tongyeong pretty easily. The young woman at the information center (where I added to my hefty map collection) in Tongyeong had given me a general area yesterday. She helped me find the myeon-- a rural administrative district in Korea-- on the map. Now I was on the main road, and as soon as I entered Gwnagdo-myeon, I saw the Myeon office. I have had pretty good luck stopping at administrative offices for informtion in Korea. Korea has a fair amount of Tourist Info booths, kiosks and buildings (near public transport, major parks and touristed places, city halls and the like in decent size cities -- amenities (bathrooms, local products, maps, computers and printers to use free. . .) and English generally vary by size of city and importance of location. Urban and rural, (dong, gu, gun, myeon) administrative offices have been very helpful, and have dealt me many surprises. I've received rides to climbing gyms.<br />
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Once, I happened to catch a sign on the building for the Korea Forest Association building in Jeonju, as I was on a bus trying to figure out how to get to some climbing areas I knew to be just south of town. I took them a little by surprized, armed with maps, printouts and xeroxes of the area and climbing info. We spread it all out on a tapble with their topo maps and set to work. The Korean Forest Rangers actually sent me with a driver and their best English speaker to find 2 climbing areas just South of my old home in Jeonju. They were impressed with the information I had assembled, and though initially reluctant to leave the car and scout, they were psyched when the saw the bolts! When we returned, we had to take requisite photos with the people at the office!<br />
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But back to the trip! I look to my left and there is the Myeon office with the door wide open that seems to scream "Come in". . . when I enter, I am greeted by two young women. "안녕하세요 적덕마을은 어디에 있습니까?" I ask. (It does help to speak a little Korean, especially away from major cities. It sort of reminds me that my University classes, chapter 4 and/or 5 on directions (just after the "leisure time" unit and before "my schedule" was probably most of the preparation these students had, and the most contact with a native speaker, before landing the not-so-well-paid post in a lonely info outpost). Anyway, this is a simple enough conversation in Korean, and the village is indeed tiny. They find a map that shows the village (very tiny) xerox it and mark my route in red. They tell me not to take 77, but the coastal road 5. Not sure if there was work on 77, or they just thought the former was a much more pleasant drive, but they join right by the village. I had to stop along the way, though. I had to videotape a cute village (with a friendly cow) and some of the coastal road, including a beautiful stretch where friendly fishermen took a break, spreading their nets out near this newish fitness park overlooking the sea on one side and mountains on the other! Suddenly there was a kind of industrial zone and 3 huge cargo ships. . . (this area is big into ports and shippbuilding and shipping!) . . . and shortly after that, I just spyed the village name 적덕 (on a tiny street sign) about as soon as I saw the rocks behind it! I actually had to U-turn and headed into this rather small town (with a sadly large church sticking out of a fairly traditional setting).<br />
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Cha-cha has been amazing, but I think I really pushed her up the 5.11 approach road. It was paved (well, we rolled backwards before it turned gravel). . . i have to remember that I don't have 4-wheel drive, that these roads are crazy and that I hate having to back down steep narrow village roads with tight turns, etc! This one wasn't as bad as Mae Bawi Village (where I had to open someone's gate and clear their lawn-- I did put it all back) to turn around! I had actually tried to get someone to do it for me, but it was on Korea's biggest holiday, Chuseok, and I was on my own (it was rainy!). . .) anyway, perhaps having survived that with a minor dent in the silver under the door (from driving over/into a small rock placed at the edge of the road), I had more confidence this time. I think the road was less steep and the car didn't stall out so much. . . er, the new breaks probably made a big difference!! OK, $150 bucks, but I was really really glad for these!!!<br />
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So I back into a kinda steep parking lot (well, after that not really steep!) and head back up. . . say 10 minutes to my highpoint just below a parking area. then a short gravel road. I took the sign pointing to Buchae and Sangsa Bawi, though the path direct to Sangsa a bit further on, is probably better.<br />
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WOW! Amazing climbing! I ended up spending quite awhile looking at all the routes. This is potential book material, provided I can contact one or both of the local clubs (that obviously maintain the place) to get accurate route info. I got lots of photos and notes, as many names/grades were listed beneath. Once thing that goes against my US ethics is that almost every bolt was spray-painted red. That said, they looked solid and the area was very clean. Signs pointed away from the rock, sometimes far into the woods, for "bathrooms". At any rate, it's not super easy to get to, but time and space considered and this might get included. At least if after some climbing the consensus is "yeah".<br />
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I ended up leaving late and taking 77 most of the way on the coast, heading inland to go more directly to Masan. traffic through Masan was crazy around 5:00 and I stopped for some food and a break and to call the person I was staying with. Driving through Busan on a Friday evening warranted a second break (after breaks I am happier and calmer, even making some videos of the city at night). I arrived fairly late in Korea's 2nd city.<br />
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The plan is to meet-up at Daeryokbong, a popular area on a big mountain right in the city and do some craggin' and of course, information gathering for me! Dave from Gunsan is turning 21 tomorrow and I picked up some Green Tea Wine (world's only from a highway rest stop at Korea's green tea capital, Boseong, a city I passed through (sadly at night) after leaving Ricky's. I also picked up a number of Korea's popular hangover rememdies and bundled it with some Vita-C and Emergen-C! Hard to believe some of these folks are 20!! I've been climbing longer than that!!the South Coasttag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-21:1389802:BlogPost:122012008-03-21T01:34:16.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
so I left Ricky's (I was getting a little lazy, but also a bit more organized, at Ricky's . . . a little too social, watching movies. . . I did like her Korean keypad, though. . .<br />
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and so I left for Sacheon. . . which is a nice, but spread out city with a very bright power plant! I stopped in Suncheon for dinner, so I rolled in a little late. . . but a managed to find a nice jjimjilbang on the beach. . . there was actually an outdoor tub overlooking the beach, which was nice! I am not camping…
so I left Ricky's (I was getting a little lazy, but also a bit more organized, at Ricky's . . . a little too social, watching movies. . . I did like her Korean keypad, though. . .<br />
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and so I left for Sacheon. . . which is a nice, but spread out city with a very bright power plant! I stopped in Suncheon for dinner, so I rolled in a little late. . . but a managed to find a nice jjimjilbang on the beach. . . there was actually an outdoor tub overlooking the beach, which was nice! I am not camping so much!! I guess it's still cold! Early AM I was off for Waryongsan, the obvious mountain in the middle of the city. The climbing rock was named on the city tourism map. When I went to the temple by the trail head, the monk totally understood that I was looking for the rock-climbing and gave me the beta.<br />
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The rock is nice, but some routes are downright scary. . . groundfall potential. . . and some very old gear. . . all in all, I am not sure it makes the book. . . then, batteries dead, I head through dinosaur country (where dinosaur footprints were found, and giant dinosaurs are visable along the road) to an Island SW of Busan. . . I find the outdoor artificial walls easily-- but no other climbers. In Tongyeong I boulder a bit-- the wall is nice! I talk to some local children. I try hiking the mountain where there are some rumored routes. . . at night, I sit at the trailhead (because I get wifi there) and search for Korean sites on 계룡산 . . . I just don't have the time (money) now to check out areas I don't think I'll include. . . I have decided not to include ridges and bouldering (maybe an essay on each) . . . better to head up to potentially better areas! The Gyerongsan Hotsprings were nice:)Yellow Dusttag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-18:1389802:BlogPost:120412008-03-18T06:05:34.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
Yellow dust is a phonomenon that has been affection Korea for over a decade and getting worse every year. In springtime, the sky get hazy (and even yellow) as a cloud filled with dust and heavy metals blows in from China. It's blamed on deforestation and the expansion of the Gobi Desert.<br />
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I am at the far tip of the penninsula, but it is still bad. 10 years ago, it was limited to a few days several times in the spring. . . it's getting longer ad more intense, starting earlier. . .<br />
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Mokpo has…
Yellow dust is a phonomenon that has been affection Korea for over a decade and getting worse every year. In springtime, the sky get hazy (and even yellow) as a cloud filled with dust and heavy metals blows in from China. It's blamed on deforestation and the expansion of the Gobi Desert.<br />
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I am at the far tip of the penninsula, but it is still bad. 10 years ago, it was limited to a few days several times in the spring. . . it's getting longer ad more intense, starting earlier. . .<br />
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Mokpo has been decorating itself (lights, artificial waterfalls, expansion of parks and pedestrian areas) recently, and is emerging into a true Korean provincial capital (even one of the most remote, rural and sparcely populated provinces). On the negative side, the conspicuous consumption has taken hold, with the ensuing noise, packaging, pollution, traffic, waste. On the positive side, there are still some quaint neighborhoods and the people largely retain their southern hospitality. And finding decent coffee (and wifi) is possible. There are two vegetarian restaurants that are excellent quality and crowded! Quite a few foreign climbers live in Mokpo now, and I've managed to see Nicola, Maggie, Shannon, and Richard. . . from KOTR.<br />
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Ricky's place is huge, and she's letting me store a couple bags, emptying my car a bit! I was able to organize maps, files, etc, a bit. My car still looks pretty bad, but maybe a third person could fit now?!<br />
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Tonight we will go to the local climbing gym. I have a few questions for them regarding the local crag (Kokkiri Bawi) and gyms in neighboring Gwangju. Tomorrow I plan to head east, possibly stopping near Wolchulsan to revisit the Artificial Rock Climbing Stadium, before checking out a few climbing areas along the way to Pusan where I'll meet friends for the weekend, Another friend may join before the weekend for the road trip. . . I just have to assess the quality and whether or not the crags meet my criteria for the book. . . but if the rock looks nice, it might be fun to get some climbing in (and productive). . .Where does the day go?tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-14:1389802:BlogPost:118412008-03-14T02:17:20.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
This is taking a lot longer than I thought!! My "to do" list adds two things for every one I finish!!<br />
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Meanwhile, time off is a trip to the gym (though I spend time between problems browsing magazines and asking questions. . .) with membership comes a key to the gym. . . maybe I'll crash here next time I'm in town;/<br />
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I talked to a couple groups of art students, and am waiting to hear back. They seemed very hesitant to paint my car (you don't see much of that here, though ads/logos on cars. . .…
This is taking a lot longer than I thought!! My "to do" list adds two things for every one I finish!!<br />
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Meanwhile, time off is a trip to the gym (though I spend time between problems browsing magazines and asking questions. . .) with membership comes a key to the gym. . . maybe I'll crash here next time I'm in town;/<br />
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I talked to a couple groups of art students, and am waiting to hear back. They seemed very hesitant to paint my car (you don't see much of that here, though ads/logos on cars. . . ), but I think they just need to see it. Then they'd see they can't possibly mess it up!! meanwhile, I kinda want to wash it, but if I get it painted, I'd have to wash it again. . . it rained a little last night. . .<br />
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I have to meet a few folks at school this afternoon, then maybe a quick workout than down to Gwangju to check out the gyms there and get a head start on an article for the Gwangju News. If folks are climbing at Mudeungsan Sat I'd join. . . maybe even Sun if Ricky wanted? Sat I plan to head to Mokpo (or Yeongam, near Mokpo) to visit my friend Ricky. I haven't seen her in ages (well, months and months!) and we need to catch up!<br />
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Ricky really should write the intro to Mokpo for the book, as she lived in Mokpo about 3 years and basically learned to climb here. Suddenly there's this wave of foreign climbers in this remote city (at the very SW tip of the peninsula) and the feel has changed, but Ricky was first, and I can relate to her experience climbing and training with the Koreans. When I first came to Korea, there were no other foreign climbers (well, Frederic, the French engineer for 6 months) to speak of. . . so while I love KOTR, I kinda miss the closeness with the Korean community. Anyway, Ricky is a very funny, open, strong but vulnerable, beautiful person (I read her blog before I met her, and she is even better in person!!) I am happy to say that Ricky (or my sister) are my highest matches on Facebook "Are You Like Me? quizzes:)<br />
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Need to get organized again!Cartag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-11:1389802:BlogPost:117212008-03-11T09:30:00.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
I got the idea the other day, to ask the art students at my old university to paint my car for me. As it is, it gets a lot of attention. Basically, no one in Korea drives a car that looks like mine-- I bought it from the USAF base in Gunsan. . . a 1994 Elantra. . . little dented, little rusted, $150. I paid way more for breaks, minor repairs, battery, and photo-radar speeding tickets (before I realized the cameras were for real. . . ) heck, insurance was over $700. . . and between acations and…
I got the idea the other day, to ask the art students at my old university to paint my car for me. As it is, it gets a lot of attention. Basically, no one in Korea drives a car that looks like mine-- I bought it from the USAF base in Gunsan. . . a 1994 Elantra. . . little dented, little rusted, $150. I paid way more for breaks, minor repairs, battery, and photo-radar speeding tickets (before I realized the cameras were for real. . . ) heck, insurance was over $700. . . and between acations and broken foot, I didn't even drive it 40% of the covered time! Anyway, I think it would be fun to decorate it along the theme: Road Trip Korea! Korea on the Rocks!<br />
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Tonight I will meet my Korean teacher,박경영 her husband and son for dinner at my favorite vegetarian buffet<br />
재식뷔페 (that happened to be in the family of one of my past writing students). Anyway, I had met 경영's son (her mother-in-law, sister, nephew. . .) already, but not her husband. . . I probably should spend a little time brushing up on my Korean so as to include the husband!!<br />
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So my big project today (that attracted a few glances, and one pretty rude guy who I had to really ask a few times to leave all my things and not try to help me repack the car!!!). It took a good few hours, but seeing as I really didn't get rid of much, it was more like organizing. . . I need a place to stash some things! (The problem is, most people have pretty small places. . . and until today, I didn't have anything organized that I could stash-- ie, things to send/take to Europe that I won't use for awhile. . . BUT at least I am organized. . .or <i>more</i> organized. . .<br />
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and like I have the time, when I went to my old office yesterday, I got some mail, included two issues of <i>Korea Policy Review</i> (on the new president's policy and the oil spill. . . so I kinda want to read them:). . . and an TESOL magazine that I should at least browse thorugh. . . and I can finally stream <i>The Daily Show</i>. . .<br />
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FOCUS!!<br />
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. . . well that was productive. . . I put aside the mail and got to work on my to do list mostly. . . boy I have a lot of stuff to do. . . I can now scratch off "make to-do list" but I have to add "organize to do list" . . . the list kinda took over my notebook (#21 is actually "organize notebook and notes"). I almost feel like starting a new notebook. . . but I need to do it on the computer. . . just get all the info down as I check it off. . . then just contacts. . . and getting translations, never mind contacting people about printing and distribution. . .<br />
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and I have another business idea that I need to talk to a few specific people about. . .<br />
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I also managed to plan-- at least generally-- for the next few weeks. OK, I am still waiting for some replies. I think I need publicity for expenses and PARTNERS! I need midweek partners!! I need sponsors! I need my car painted:)<br />
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I need to go through contacts! I need a secratary! I need funds, sponsors. . .Jeonjutag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-11:1389802:BlogPost:117012008-03-11T02:41:51.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
Workday!<br />
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Again, hard to get up off a warm floor! I probably didn't leave the cchimchilbang until almost 10! Most of the morning was spent online, arranging a place to stay (with Mauricio in Junghwasandong). . . enjoying the perfect latte at Flanel. A quick lunch (maemiljangbangkuksu-- spicy buckwheat noodles and vegetables) and visit to Jeonju University (strange my desk is not my desk. . . and this year the freshman I had when I started are returning as seniors!) then to the new climbing gym,…
Workday!<br />
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Again, hard to get up off a warm floor! I probably didn't leave the cchimchilbang until almost 10! Most of the morning was spent online, arranging a place to stay (with Mauricio in Junghwasandong). . . enjoying the perfect latte at Flanel. A quick lunch (maemiljangbangkuksu-- spicy buckwheat noodles and vegetables) and visit to Jeonju University (strange my desk is not my desk. . . and this year the freshman I had when I started are returning as seniors!) then to the new climbing gym, 바위오름 Bawioreum run by 도일 where I met up with Lindsey and Seungbin (a climber from Jeonju who studied in the USA and Canada). . . it was good to stretch and work out a bit!<br />
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I am hoping to find a few more topos online that I can compare with. . . but I do want to talk to the first ascentonists. I did find out that Maisan is featured in the 10/06 issue of one of the Mountain magazines:)<br />
Mauricio has wifi. . . and like Corey too, a MacBook (in slick black).Maisan day 2tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-10:1389802:BlogPost:116062008-03-10T06:36:58.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
So I have two winter sleeping bags, both in the USA. In Korea I have a very old summer bag. . . but fleece and thermals. . . and somewhere a blanket. . . and Ian had an extra bivy sack. . . so I had my fleece on, but was so warm at first, that I didn't put on the thermals. . . was pretty cold all night as I tried to work up the courage to put on the thermals. I did manage to put on wool socks, which helped alot. . . but ended up sleeping most after Ian's obnoxious talking phone/alarm clock went…
So I have two winter sleeping bags, both in the USA. In Korea I have a very old summer bag. . . but fleece and thermals. . . and somewhere a blanket. . . and Ian had an extra bivy sack. . . so I had my fleece on, but was so warm at first, that I didn't put on the thermals. . . was pretty cold all night as I tried to work up the courage to put on the thermals. I did manage to put on wool socks, which helped alot. . . but ended up sleeping most after Ian's obnoxious talking phone/alarm clock went off at 6. Apparently I wasn't the only one. . . we ended up getting up at 11! So much for the early start. Quick breakdown of camp. . . make self look presentable (luckily hat weather!) . . . across the lake, we watched a Buddhist ceremony of some sort. there were several monks, some with red sashes. A woman sprinkling something into the lake. many well dressed people and chanting. As my camera batteries were dead, I had Ian take some photos. I wanted to check it out, but we were so late already. Ian went to the boathouse for canned coffee (and he had those aweful greasy pancakes) while I packed or threw everything in the car and quickly slammed the trunk/doors. We moved the car next to the shiny SUV, which it turned out belonged to a climber from Icheon who was visiting Opera House. I assume they camped there. . .<br />
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A Seoul group was at Al bawi. . . older folks, mostly. We decided to do one of the multi-pitches starting from the ledge. The book had conflicting information about which 1st pitches continued up, so we had to traverse a bit after the first. Still I think we chose right as there are some dodgy starts, considering this conglomerate comes out rather easily!! The climbing was straighforward. . . I was feeling the effects of yesterday-- first time back on the rock since mid-January and quite a bit heavier. . . my fingers were refusing to work. . . still, no cure for sucky climbing like climbing!! And I did remember to clip my nails this morning:) We were surprised to find some nice chain anchors higher up (though looking across saw some really scary anchors). The views were truely amazing-- from the lake, across at pagodas, even the city, but mostly layer after layer of mountains. . . like a watercolor as the clouds were coming and it was getting hazy (glad I opted to bring the fleece. . . as I used it from P2). . . the rock was pretty darn solid, and I am surprised that people don't do the multipitches more often (except for the danger if it is crowded below. We were lucky in that no one was beneath us, but that said, we kicked off minimal loose rock.). So I made some notes for my guidebook, and we were off. . .<br />
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We decided to eat in Jeonju, as it was early, just overcast and cold. It was a great drive along 26 and traffic was not bad in Jeonju. We arrived at the barli-rice (mostly) vegetarian organic buffet just as it was setting up, so everything looked especially good. I got Ian to the (newly renovated, though not as extensively as the inner-city terminal) Express-bus terminal and headed to the wifi coffee shop Flanel near my old gym and cchimchilbang, Total Sauna. With little time or opportunity to hit the Internet and couch surf in Jeonju, I'd take the opportunity to get really clean and presentable. I still have a lot to do, most notable the to-do list!!<br />
I didn't even have to wait long for a parking space! The coffee shop has been changed a bit-- very swank, with copies of dwell and a lending library. . .Maisantag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-09:1389802:BlogPost:116052008-03-09T05:00:00.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
I slept a lot later than I thought!! Something about a warm floor. . .<br />
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I determined that my trials in Vietnam were all set to make me appreciate Korea more. it seems so efficient. . . as I was driving from Nonsan to Jinan, I see a sign pointing out my highway, 1, next right at intersection. I end up going on this obvious farm rode-- but it's paved! In Vietnam and Cambodia, there are no highways, much less expressways to speak of. Motorbikes, bicycles, oxcarts use the same roads as busses and…
I slept a lot later than I thought!! Something about a warm floor. . .<br />
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I determined that my trials in Vietnam were all set to make me appreciate Korea more. it seems so efficient. . . as I was driving from Nonsan to Jinan, I see a sign pointing out my highway, 1, next right at intersection. I end up going on this obvious farm rode-- but it's paved! In Vietnam and Cambodia, there are no highways, much less expressways to speak of. Motorbikes, bicycles, oxcarts use the same roads as busses and trucks (esp in Vietnam, which has a terrible accident rate). Anyway, I felt like an idiot. I am back in Korea, where streets have 6 lanes and provincial roads are divided. . .<br />
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I thought I got a late start, but I am texted by Ian that he had a long wait for the bus in Daegu. . . so I take my time and get some coffee in Jeonju and get some mileage info for Maisan. As soon as I pull into jinan, Ian calls-- he just arrived. I go to get him (and mind you, my car is filled. I haven't had a chance to go through it yet, but I left a lot of stuff in there. I barely fit Ian. . .) and he has met Seungbin (who is carrying a climbing rope) who is waiting to meet Lindsey. Seungbin is a student living in Jeonju attending Jeon-buk. He studied in the USA and Canada, and he enjoys climbing. I guess he and Lindsey have bonded! Excellent timing so she won't feel too isolated in Jinan. His English is excellent. . . anyway, they were heading to a regional bouldering comp in Gwangju tomorrow. . .<br />
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We get to Maisan, check out the easy climbs (maybe 5.6-- one bolted climb with another anchor a meter to the right so two topropes might go at the same time). I should talk to Peter to get the exact details (grades, FA, height) for the book. Lindsey had told me about these routes Peter and a friend were putting in, in particular for their guiding. Good for folks learning to lead, too. Anyway, it was useful to scope and verify info for my book. We did get a little stuck in route matching, as there were some cases of seemingly random bolts? The only other group there were a group from Wonkgwang University in Iksan. The woman remembered me from last fall, when Erin, Lindsey and I stopped by after that first trip to Hagampo Beach! It poured and we were loving it, even as another Korean group was starting up the routes in the pourdown. Lindsey was brand-new to Jinan, and I was showing her the routes in her own backyard, having failed to get her home in time for church. . .but I digress:)<br />
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It was pretty sunny, but because we got such a late start we climbed into the cool evening. I moved my car to the gate of the (closed) campground. The road into the park was open and no-one was at the ticket booth anymore. There was plenty room on side of my car if anyone was to need to enter. that said, it might be noted that my car stands out in Korea, where no self-respecting person would drive something in as bad of shape as my 1994 Hyundai Elantra. What isn't dented is rusted. But the battery and breaks are new!! Her name is Cha Cha. Cha being the word for car in Korean, and Cha Cha being the first female dragster driver, and a childhood hero. It's getting dark and the park is amazingly empty for a Saturday night. The parking lot was full with day-trippers. Now a few restauranteurs beckon us (well, shout out to us!!)<br />
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By then we were both starving. No day in the mountains, even if climbing is merely walking to the end of the paved road, is complete in Korea without a meal, preferably with some alcohol. Most of the restaurants offer the same: for vegetarians: moutain vegetables with rice; for meat eaters, the local specialty: black pork. Many people come to Maisan just for the food (Jinan is also known for Ginseng). Last time here, we discovered a particularly good restaurant, though, with especially good side-dishes. This time, they are closed, so we backtrack to the last guy who is calling us back.<br />
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I get the Veggies and Ian gets the pork and we get some dong-dong-ju (similar to makkoli, and popular after a day in the mountains), a rice wine. We are not disappointed! At times, the owners 4 year old (a rather, um, large child whi looks and acts much older) is a little much (like when we want to eat) but she's also pretty bright and in appropriate doses, cute! The sides are plentiful and good. We eat a lot! We stay awhile. . . the woman remembers me from a previous visit (I think with Rick and Yatsko, but maybe with Jason S. . .?!) She is from Jeonju, Pyeonghwa-dong.<br />
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After the meal, we head back to the camp ground, grab what we need and head down the road. Sadly, all the beautiful new buildings: large meeting rooms, bathrooms, showers, cleaning/cooking areas are closed. . . but we do find a row of huge sturdy tents with large wooden platforms inside. the doors zip open. Score: we put up my tent (hmmm. . . I didn't remember it being in such shape?). . . my car is getting really bad as I dig though the perfectly packed trunk to get the tent, look for thermals. . .I head out to brush teeth, etc. . . the park built some really nice (foam toilet) bathrooms right by the turnoff to the trail. . . I head up there. The park was so quiet. there was a beautiful shiny black SUV in the gravel lot by the bathrooms. I consider this a place to move my car tomorrow, rather than back to the parking lot. It is so quiet. Only one car has passed. I look out onto the lake, at the building that extends over the water. There is a gate one can step over blocking the bridge to the building. The swan paddle-boats for hire (along with one dragon paddle-boat) are floating along the edge, and the whole scene is so quiet that I step over the gate and walk across the bridge. . . around the building. . . looking out. . . oh, wait. . . I go back to get Ian and invite hime out. It's so nice to have the whole place to ourselves, but now it is getting late. . . or I'd hike up to the temples. My eyes have totally adjusted to the light. . . great because both headlamps had no batteries!So I blog. . .tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-03-08:1389802:BlogPost:116012008-03-08T04:30:00.000ZSoniahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/Sonia
OK, well, here is my first real experiment with blogging! An acquaintance suggested blogging the Korean road trip, but I thought it would be just one more thing to fit in. . . well, that's true, but keeping track of my progress might be inspiring anyway. moreover, the whole thing is becoming more adventurous. . . and who knows what is yet to come. . . I figure keeping an online journal will at least give all the "events" their purpose, as part of this story.<br />
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So the story actually began a few…
OK, well, here is my first real experiment with blogging! An acquaintance suggested blogging the Korean road trip, but I thought it would be just one more thing to fit in. . . well, that's true, but keeping track of my progress might be inspiring anyway. moreover, the whole thing is becoming more adventurous. . . and who knows what is yet to come. . . I figure keeping an online journal will at least give all the "events" their purpose, as part of this story.<br />
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So the story actually began a few days ago! I flew back to Korea March 5. After too many disappointments in Vietnam, and some pleasant surprizes in Cambodia, I am on a road trip through Korea. . . suddenly I have this to-do list that stretches several pages and wow-- i might have accomplished more this winter. Plus I get some other ideas (related to the book). . . but first of all, I arrive at the airport and catch a bus to Ssangmun and a taxi to Corey's apartment. Easy enough. I even manage to find my car. . . parked on the backside. . . just as Corey is leaving for the day (about 10:00AM) He gives me the key to the apt. . . the car hasn't started for about 3 weeks, he says. Great. I wait around the parking lot a bit. . . go to the building adjossi (the guy who sleeps in front of the building in a little room with a TV and a heater) and flag a few vehicles. . . but among those people who seem interested in helping me, none has jumper cables.<br />
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But I am tired. I sleep most of the day. I wake up and Barak has not done so well in Texas and Ohio which I had sensed. My stomach feels a bit knotted. In the evening I go to O2 World and see Jason and Simon. Mr. Kang, a policeman who climbs there, suggests I call 112 for a jump. I will get a phone tomorrow then get a jump start. Corey makes an amazing broccoli-tofu dinner. My sister calls to say she is pregnant.<br />
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Thursday, I head to Yongsan Electronics Mall first. WOW-- last time I was there was maybe a year and a half ago? It's gone from a many buildings old-market feel to a slick mall-like enclosed space, built into new metro and rail stations. Very modern and wow. . . but I also find out that I cannot get a new phone (old one was stolen in Vietnam!) without an alien registration card. OK, I am sitting here and talking to the saleguy. . . I have a phone selected. . . I have a passport, even an old phone # registered to me. . . but new rules. . . OK, a little frustrated. . . a red-haired woman who feels my frustration suggests Dave's ESL Cafe online to buy one from someone who's leaving.<br />
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I am worried about my car. . . I am not prepared for another string of frustration, not here! and I can't do this book without a car or phone. OK, I need to shed the negative energy. Corey is reading A New Earth, which I just finished reading, so we were discussing it. . . I find my copy to look for a part about how just being present can sometimes change the outcome. . . just letting go. . . so I took a few minutes. Went to Dave's, where phones it seemed sold rather quickly. I didn't want to wait around for days searching for a phone. . . and then, one comes up for sale as I am online. I PM, post and e-mail the seller, Ollie, who is leaving Korea. Over a few e-mails, he agrees to meet me that night! W35,000 (about W1000-$1) and it'll still be registered to him (I did read about a new cut off on March 31, where phones registered to people who leave the country are cut off. . . but I couldn't see another way, and for the price it was worth it for the month!)<br />
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Then Corey came back, and called 112 (they understood English fairly well) and 10 minutes later the police came. Officers lee and Yu were quite friendly and helpful. They had no jumper cables, but they called the repair guy who brought a battery and they got me a 10% discount ($90 vs $100) and they waited with me. . .<br />
Corey made a great lentil-wheatbread dinner with vegetable side. . .<br />
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Friday I have a phone and battery charger. . . but we stayed up so late last night (Corey and I agree on a lot of political/social justice issues -- with the exception of Castro!-- which can lead to talking too late. . .) that I take a longer than I wanted nap and leave N. Seoul (Dobong-gu) about 3:45. It is 5:30 when I pass through the S. Seoul tollway, and I went fairly directly, traffic moving OK. I decide to give my car a break (and myself, as it has gotten dark) and pull over in Nonsan to stay at a cchimchilbang. These are 24 hour saunas found all over the country. For $5, I get unlimited use of the bathhouse, with several hot tubs and wet and dry sauna. I also get bright orange shorts and T-shirt for the common areas, with hot and cold sauna, TV lounge, restaurant. . . this one is pretty lame. No PC room? and the restaurant is limited! But I just need some sleep. Tomorrow I am meeting Ian (from Daegu) in Jinan and we're climbing at Maisan! I need to verify information and check out some new climbs I've heard about.