Comments - OPEN INTERVIEW to ... ADAM ONDRA - 9b2024-03-29T00:25:16Zhttp://novebi.ning.com/profiles/comment/feed?attachedTo=1389802%3ABlogPost%3A13112&xn_auth=noInteresting questions from So…tag:novebi.ning.com,2009-01-13:1389802:Comment:258692009-01-13T21:35:04.489Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<a href="http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/">Interesting questions from Sonnie Trotter regarding Adam too</a>:<br />
" <i>When a child prodigy is “discovered” for lack of a better word, is it because they want it more, because they train harder, or have better body awareness, or is just simply because their body allows them to be better than everyone else, they just are?<br />
<br />
Maybe its rapid development, they have access to better cliffs, training facilities and coaches?<br />
<br />
Sure, all…</i>
<a href="http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/">Interesting questions from Sonnie Trotter regarding Adam too</a>:<br />
" <i>When a child prodigy is “discovered” for lack of a better word, is it because they want it more, because they train harder, or have better body awareness, or is just simply because their body allows them to be better than everyone else, they just are?<br />
<br />
Maybe its rapid development, they have access to better cliffs, training facilities and coaches?<br />
<br />
Sure, all climbers work hard and develop our skills over time and we hope to reach our potential, the way Chris has done with his new 5.15’s, but what about the early years, I mean after only a few short years Chris was the best climber in North America, beating everyone who had twice the skills and twice the experience. What is that?<br />
How much of our sport (or sport in general) is based on genetics?<br />
<br />
I read in a ski magazine that the average retirement age for a professional free skier is 25, and that’s OLD. I invite you to join me in this discussion, I would love to hear other comments if you have any.<br />
Where these climbers born strong or did they develop it ?</i> " 20 - at the beginning, how wa…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-12-18:1389802:Comment:242582008-12-18T20:52:07.123ZAdam Ondrahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/AdamOndra
20 - at the beginning, how was born Your desire to climb ?<br />
It just came naturally. I was with my parents at the crag and there was a big envy from side that i did not climb too. But I was not sufficiently tall, so I did not become obsessed first time. There was radical change in summer 1999, when I was tall enough to climb at least some routes of 6th degree.<br />
21 - And now ? Can You explain why climbing is so fun for You ? Which is the most important thing in Your climbing ?<br />
There are a few…
20 - at the beginning, how was born Your desire to climb ?<br />
It just came naturally. I was with my parents at the crag and there was a big envy from side that i did not climb too. But I was not sufficiently tall, so I did not become obsessed first time. There was radical change in summer 1999, when I was tall enough to climb at least some routes of 6th degree.<br />
21 - And now ? Can You explain why climbing is so fun for You ? Which is the most important thing in Your climbing ?<br />
There are a few various reasons why I am so obsessed. At first, I can't imagine anything else what I would do in my free time. To spend a weekend at home? What a horrible, maybe even spooky imagination for me. On the other hand, I like if I can sit at home for while and do absolutely nothing, but it will get boring pretty fast. But what is the more important? The fact I feel so much free on the rock. The best feelings come in the end of climbing when I climb some easier route to warm down. It is sometimes like getting into my own world, all moves are absolutely automatical and move up is fluid. It is something undiscribeable. I never get into this state when it is raining or it is indoor. It depens a lot on whole natural feature and weather. There are some memorable moments while climbing hard route, but I do not enjoy the climbing while climbing on my boarders, you have the only target to beat the top. Pushing the limits is also reason why I climb, but not that big. I would probably climb too if it existed in climbing just focus on hard ascents, but I would not love it the same for sure.<br />
22 - Which are Your main interests if not sport ?<br />
Oh, hard to say. Sometimes I take newspaper and find out what is new. I would play board game a lot if somebody would like play with me :-)... Then sometimes watching Simpsons, playing games on mobile (just when I have really nothing to do and out of home, playing on PC at home is waste of time). 16 - What do You think about…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-12-12:1389802:Comment:239632008-12-12T17:31:41.311ZAdam Ondrahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/AdamOndra
16 - What do You think about the proposal to share and confirm a 9b route ? ;-)<br />
Good idea, heeh. Why not whether shape and conditions will be excellent.<br />
<br />
17 - I read You said: “ Terribly hard is to compare endurance routes with bouldery ones, so one cannot compare Moravian Karst and Spain too much. Generally I think following:<br />
in Spain you need only power and knowledge of how to depump on a jug (some better technique makes it only a bit easier).<br />
In the Frankenjura you need brutal power (a lot…
16 - What do You think about the proposal to share and confirm a 9b route ? ;-)<br />
Good idea, heeh. Why not whether shape and conditions will be excellent.<br />
<br />
17 - I read You said: “ Terribly hard is to compare endurance routes with bouldery ones, so one cannot compare Moravian Karst and Spain too much. Generally I think following:<br />
in Spain you need only power and knowledge of how to depump on a jug (some better technique makes it only a bit easier).<br />
In the Frankenjura you need brutal power (a lot more than in Spain), you have to figure out how to climb it.<br />
And in Karst you need power, learn how to climb it and in addition you have to be able to stand on slippery footholds.<br />
In the conclusion it looks that you feel the same in every route with the only difference - in Spain you do on 2nd attempt, in Jura on 10th one, in Karst on 20th.. ":<br />
if You do two routes of the "same" grade and to climb the first one You need 2 tries (updated nov. 08), the second one 20 tries ... I guess the second route is ... harder than the first one ... is it right ? One million dollars question ...<br />
Hey, it is not that clear. It depens a lot on the fact whether you have beta or not. In Spain, it does not depend on that so significantly as in Frankenjura. So model situation, I did some route of tricky caracter on 20th go, but If I had the beta, I could do that maybe 5th go. And other thing I must mention. There is diffence between 2nd and 20th go, but there is radically smaller difference between 5th and 20th go. It is so much about luck especially in bouldery routes. I spent on many routes more time than I had expected, however I did it almost second go, but in following attemps something just went wrong. Conditions, beeing tired...<br />
<br />
18 - What about vertical, technical, fingerpower "old school" walls ?<br />
May You write here Your sensations about La Rambla and " La Via de l'Alzina " (the 8b route You tried to on-sight after You climbed La Rambla) ?<br />
It was in joke of course, though I must say it was very hard. The main reason why everybody says that they are hard for on-sights. And we are again at the importance of knowing beta. And also everybody finds them because most of them train in steep terrain. That is just logical that if you spend 10% of climbing (or training) in verticals, you will hardly do your the hardest route there. I have to get used to a lot on this type of climbing, when I climb long just on plastic or steep rocks. But I hope I am not that bad in it, because WoGu is just about dancing on rock except for a few meters.<br />
<br />
19 - Which is the best rock You saw and/or climbed ?<br />
Every type of the rock is unigue, has advanteges and disadventages. I like the limestone the most probably, it destroys skin less than granit or sandstone. I love the grey limestone In Schleier Wasserfall with tremendous big and sloppery pockets. (attention, there is orange limestone in sector White Winds, which one of the worst I have ever seen) tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-30:1389802:Comment:235852008-11-30T12:19:59.779Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
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<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/b6O_TqTX_vY&hl=it&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/b6O_TqTX_vY&hl=it&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="never" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> 12 - Do You know some of the…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-29:1389802:Comment:235702008-11-29T20:03:14.265ZAdam Ondrahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/AdamOndra
12 - Do You know some of the climbing pioneers and legends ? Which inspire You the most ? Why ?<br />
I think I know a lot about whole history of sportclimbing. My "bible" was the book "Rockstars" (Heinz Zak 1995), which I still have in memory very well. I would recommend everybody to read who have never done yet. Very ispirational. And I have already in previous questions who is particularly. (Wolfgang Gullich, Lynn Hill, I could potentionally add Kurt Albert)<br />
<br />
13 - Which are the climbers in the…
12 - Do You know some of the climbing pioneers and legends ? Which inspire You the most ? Why ?<br />
I think I know a lot about whole history of sportclimbing. My "bible" was the book "Rockstars" (Heinz Zak 1995), which I still have in memory very well. I would recommend everybody to read who have never done yet. Very ispirational. And I have already in previous questions who is particularly. (Wolfgang Gullich, Lynn Hill, I could potentionally add Kurt Albert)<br />
<br />
13 - Which are the climbers in the world who are now inspiring and impressing You the most ? Why ? As I typed above, Tommy Caldwell, and I admire all notorious competitiors (like Tomas Mrazek) that they have so strong mind to go on competitions for such long time. I do not think it is ispiring, but it is impressing for sure.<br />
<br />
14 - You recently said: “definitely todays hardest routes are far below the human maximum”, then I read You think is possible to climb 9c after work and 9a onsight.<br />
In which way You imagine a 9c route ? Oh, man it is so easy to imagine some 9c. Just take 9a route with 8B bloc in the end (and no rest of course). Hard to imagine one can do it nowadays, but it should be possible to make all moves, shouldn't be? And once you do all moves, you might be able to redpoint it.<br />
Which grade do You think is possible to reach in bouldering ? I think human body still can do much harder moves. Sport climbing have developed 30 years, what short time in comparison with other sports.<br />
In sport multipitches ? Wow, just imagine 10 8c pitches above each other. That would be tremendous and I think more worthy 9b+.<br />
In general you can never say some absolute boarder of human possibilities, in any sport. Always somebody even stronger can come.<br />
<br />
15 - You said now You would like to climb some bouldery 9as and we see You are " training " (!?) on super fast super hard boulder ascents, in Melloblocco too.<br />
After Action Directe and other bouldery 9a routes, which other routes are You interested to climb ? Biographie-Realization ? Coupe de grace ? Neanderthal ? Akira ? Ali Hulk sit start ? Chilam Balam ? Which other routes are You dreaming ? (updated sep. '08: Jumbo love ? :-)<br />
Or You prefer to open a new project from Yours close to Your house ?<br />
Realization, Coup de grace, Neanderthal and Jumbo Love tempt me to try, what I cannot say about the rest. They have the line and are magnetific from the first glanc. That is what tempts me the most. But If I spent a lot of time in one route, I would really be focused on something near my home. Though here is not much of space for bolting new routes in Moravsky Kras, one can ALLWAYS find here some space for 9bs... Yes, no fear to be OPEN and I…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-28:1389802:Comment:235502008-11-28T18:08:40.043Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
Yes, <b><u>no fear</u></b> <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/9b-world-climbers-party">to be OPEN and INTERACTIVE</a> !<br />
Definitely 9b lifestyle ;-)
Yes, <b><u>no fear</u></b> <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/9b-world-climbers-party">to be OPEN and INTERACTIVE</a> !<br />
Definitely 9b lifestyle ;-) 9 - I see You are a " travell…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-28:1389802:Comment:235482008-11-28T16:05:42.223ZAdam Ondrahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/AdamOndra
9 - I see You are a " traveller climber ": how much is important to travel for Your climbing ?<br />
For me it is fantastic addition to climbing. To see new places is next to realizing my climbing dreams and goals. And also, I have to travel quite much for clinbing. We have some rocks in Czech Republic, but if you want good concentration of hard routes, your the nearest target is Frankenjura (at least 450 km). If you go for a weekend, that is quite a long way.<br />
<br />
10 - Did You know many foreigner…
9 - I see You are a " traveller climber ": how much is important to travel for Your climbing ?<br />
For me it is fantastic addition to climbing. To see new places is next to realizing my climbing dreams and goals. And also, I have to travel quite much for clinbing. We have some rocks in Czech Republic, but if you want good concentration of hard routes, your the nearest target is Frankenjura (at least 450 km). If you go for a weekend, that is quite a long way.<br />
<br />
10 - Did You know many foreigner climbers in Your climbing travels ? How was Your feeling with them, their culture and languages ?<br />
I am not very communicative type of person. I met a lot of people at rocks, but usully I did not take chance to discover their culture. Ecuador is exception. We did not rent a car there, thus we were left on help of the local climbers. And they were so friendly nice to us... It was unbelieveable. Thanks to them once again.<br />
11 - How much is important for You and Your climbing practicing foreigner languages ?<br />
For me the English is right now absolutely essential. On the other hand, the most important is not be scared of talking, even if you cannot speak very well. And as I typed above, I am not communicative especially in Czech, so it used be big deal for me, but I hope it is getting better and better. 33. which are you favourite c…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-27:1389802:Comment:235252008-11-27T14:32:28.570ZAdam Ondrahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/AdamOndra
33. which are you favourite climbing places in Czech ?<br />
anywhere to recommend ?<br />
Yeah, at first, I would recommend our sandstone for everyone who wants to have some unusual experince. Traditional routes are next to bolted ones, but prepare your mind also in bolted ones. The best choice for quite well bolted route is Labak and Teplice. It is really pure beauty. On the other hand, you will not find there any huge massive overhangs Rodellar style. Mostly vertical and bouldery although the routes…
33. which are you favourite climbing places in Czech ?<br />
anywhere to recommend ?<br />
Yeah, at first, I would recommend our sandstone for everyone who wants to have some unusual experince. Traditional routes are next to bolted ones, but prepare your mind also in bolted ones. The best choice for quite well bolted route is Labak and Teplice. It is really pure beauty. On the other hand, you will not find there any huge massive overhangs Rodellar style. Mostly vertical and bouldery although the routes might be very long! Just that chalk, but I think some knows this story and if not, try to google it. Then here is one limestone area Moravsky kras, but I think it is not worth of it to go there through the half of Europe. But we are enourmously happy to have it though. Then some bouldering places (Petrohrad - every spring session for 200 people called Petrohradské PADání - recommendable, Modrín, or Bor).<br />
<br />
34. a new climbing location you would like to visit ?<br />
For sure some exciting areas far way like Rocklands, Grampians, Castle Hill and something in U.S.<br />
<br />
35. any hobby/interest outside climbing ?<br />
I used to do snowboarding a lot, but lately climbing is leading more and more. Otherwise I like reading magazines (not just climbing and never tabloids) and lying in bed and doing nothing.<br />
<br />
36) would you like to share with us the emotion of the first day you went to climb ?<br />
Oh, it is so old story and I was very little, thus I do not even remember. I was 3, maybe 4. But I did not find climbing much interesting... I climbed maybe one route a year. But I loved playing under the crag. And we used go cycling beside climbing. I got mad from climbing when I was 6. Hi Adam,
thank You for Your a…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-26:1389802:Comment:233742008-11-26T15:34:10.111Z9bhttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
Hi Adam,<br />
thank You for Your answers !<br />
They are very important for us climbers, but no problem at all for Your break:<br />
Your climbing and school are important too :-)<br />
Ciao big Adam !
Hi Adam,<br />
thank You for Your answers !<br />
They are very important for us climbers, but no problem at all for Your break:<br />
Your climbing and school are important too :-)<br />
Ciao big Adam ! I am sorry for lonf break whi…tag:novebi.ning.com,2008-11-26:1389802:Comment:233702008-11-26T14:42:56.564ZAdam Ondrahttp://novebi.ning.com/profile/AdamOndra
I am sorry for lonf break while answering...<br />
<br />
28 - In your opinion, which are the reasons You don't feel fear on the contrary of me (and I guess other beginning climbers) ?<br />
I think it definately depens on experiences and time, you have climbed. I do not think the answer will not be hidden in being young... But one thing is true. If there is an objective danger (some ground-fall potential), it is better to young :-)<br />
<br />
29 - How is the mental "route" and/or attitude to transform my fears in fun…
I am sorry for lonf break while answering...<br />
<br />
28 - In your opinion, which are the reasons You don't feel fear on the contrary of me (and I guess other beginning climbers) ?<br />
I think it definately depens on experiences and time, you have climbed. I do not think the answer will not be hidden in being young... But one thing is true. If there is an objective danger (some ground-fall potential), it is better to young :-)<br />
<br />
29 - How is the mental "route" and/or attitude to transform my fears in fun ?<br />
To climb, climb and climb. Especially it is good to climb a lot onsight, to feel secure and safe on the rock. Furthermore, if you climb very hard on your limits, you have to focused very much. And if you are focused on certain level (for me it is also to get into such state), you think about nothing but following move while you climb.<br />
<br />
do you think there are enough girl in the climbing community ? I do not think so. But I think i got better now, if you compare numbers of women on competitions 10 years ago and in presence. But hard to know how many of them are climbers really by their souls as well as by the body...<br />
<br />
during your climbing days do you spend time with people of your age ?<br />
Well, I have admit that quite rarely. I do train sometimes with Martin Stranik, who is 18, but in general I climb with older guys. The competitions are the only event where I meet people of my age, but quite a few of them go on the rocks often.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
what climbers (present , past of future, famous or unknown) are of most inspiration to you ?<br />
For sure Wolfgang Gullich for pernament pushing limits,. From present climbers I admire Tommy Caldwell, because he is pushing really in bouldering as well as in multipitces. His one-day ascent of two routes on El Cap is unbelievable. The same is forn the free ascender of The Nose, Lynn Hill. I think they must really love climbing. A very inspirational climber is Manolo, I would love to climb so long in such shape too in future.