Siurana Discussions - 9b2024-03-29T14:05:34Zhttps://novebi.ning.com/group/siuranaclimbing/forum?feed=yes&xn_auth=noMinimal Technotag:novebi.ning.com,2012-02-19:1389802:Topic:768542012-02-19T10:38:36.434Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
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<p>8a</p>
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<p>8a</p> Patinoso, El Patitag:novebi.ning.com,2012-01-06:1389802:Topic:754672012-01-06T22:46:01.970Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
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<p>8c+</p>
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<p>8c+</p> La inhumana, La Capellatag:novebi.ning.com,2011-02-18:1389802:Topic:583482011-02-18T23:22:42.689Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>To the left of La Capella.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>To the left of La Capella.</p>
<p> </p> La capella sectortag:novebi.ning.com,2011-02-17:1389802:Topic:582472011-02-17T13:41:35.653Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>Capella in spanish means little church.</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309675567?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309675567?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p>You come here to pray to succeed on the routes :-)</p>
<p>Capella in spanish means little church.</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309675567?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309675567?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p>You come here to pray to succeed on the routes :-)</p> La capella, La capellatag:novebi.ning.com,2011-02-15:1389802:Topic:580512011-02-15T10:13:58.296Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>F.A. <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/profile/show?id=AdamOndra&xg_source=profiles_memberList" target="_self">Adam Ondra</a> (<a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/kalymnos/forum/topics/gora-guta-gutarak-odyssey" target="_self">8c+ bouldery route on sight</a> and <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/cresciano/forum/topics/confessions-la-boule" target="_self">8b/+ boulder flash</a> in 2009, Bouldering World Cup winner in 2010), 2011/02/16</p>
<p> </p>
<p>"…</p>
<p>F.A. <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/profile/show?id=AdamOndra&xg_source=profiles_memberList" target="_self">Adam Ondra</a> (<a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/kalymnos/forum/topics/gora-guta-gutarak-odyssey" target="_self">8c+ bouldery route on sight</a> and <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/group/cresciano/forum/topics/confessions-la-boule" target="_self">8b/+ boulder flash</a> in 2009, Bouldering World Cup winner in 2010), 2011/02/16</p>
<p> </p>
<p>" <em><a href="http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx?UserId=1476&AscentType=0&AscentClass=0&AscentListTimeInterval=1&AscentListViewType=0" target="_blank">An extremely bouldery route</a> which took 7 days this trip and 2 days last year</em> ".</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sorry for the following <span class="small">bad</span> photos (<span class="small">as usual, </span> <span class="small"><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/3.0/" target="_blank">use is possible</a> with link to this page from websites or credit to this site from printed magazines</span> ) ... just to let you see the line and some move :-)<br/> <a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309675108?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309675108?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309676295?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309676295?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677023?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677023?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
The route is to the left of <a href="../jungle-speed-la-capella" target="_self">Jungle speed</a>.<br/>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677291?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677291?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677556?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677556?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
Really bouldery route: the main difficulty is concentrated in <span class="font-size-3"><span class="font-size-2">just around</span> 4 <span class="font-size-2">bolts</span></span>.<br/>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677735?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309677735?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p><strong>Estimated</strong> section by section grades:</p>
<p>after a 7a+/b boulder, there is an 8a+ boulder section ...</p>
<a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309678427?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309678427?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><br/>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309679448?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309679448?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309679741?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309679741?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><br/>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680107?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680107?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680347?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680347?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><br/>
<p>... then another 8a+/b boulder</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680847?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309680847?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309681267?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309681267?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309681541?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309681541?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309681902?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309681902?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309682307?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309682307?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309682622?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309682622?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a>No good rest between the boulders.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309683054?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309683054?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309683480?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309683480?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p>The 3 bouldering problems could eventually be compared to something like a long 8c boulder.</p>
<p> </p>
<a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309683923?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309683923?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a><br/>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684141?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684141?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p>The last really hard move is before the following foot-hook:</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684579?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684579?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The first, old sequence for the lower crux and the following dynos:</p>
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<p>After the 3 boulders there is a final 7c+ route section (about 7 meters):</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684579?profile=original"></a><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684968?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684968?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309685143?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309685143?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309684968?profile=original"></a><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309685795?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309685795?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p>A tricky move just before the anchor.</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309686577?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309686577?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309687048?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309687048?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p>" <em>Bearing in mind the effort, it could be 9b, but I am not sure at all.</em></p>
<p><em>Would have been definitely 9b if I hadn't figured out better sequence for the lower crux, as I had the sequence I had thought it would be a quick work and 9a+ but in the end I fell nine times in the higher crux...</em></p>
<p><em>Time will tell</em> "</p>
<p> </p>
<p>9b, the first "9bouldery" route in sport climbing history and the first 9b proposed by Adam.</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309687493?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2309687493?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a>(<em>Adam and his belaying friend</em> <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/siurana-e-crudele" target="_self">the day before his ascent</a>)</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>The 15 mt route is not a link-up and was bolted in 1996 by <a href="http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/the-art-of-envisioning-bolting" target="_self">visionary, generous</a> and no chipping David and Carles Brascò (source: D. Brascò and N. Campillo guidebook).</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Links:</p>
<p>- <a href="http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-la-via-de-la-capella-y-propone-9b" target="_blank">1</a> (spanish), <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=es&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fdesnivel.com%2Fescalada-roca%2Fadam-ondra-encadena-la-via-de-la-capella-y-propone-9b" target="_blank">english</a></p>
<p>- <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60472" target="_blank">2</a></p>
<p> </p> Week on the rockstag:novebi.ning.com,2011-01-25:1389802:Topic:542012011-01-25T21:03:38.568Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>F.A. <a href="http://daniel-jung.blogspot.com/2010/12/nice-first-ascent-in-siurana.html" target="_blank">Daniel Jung</a></p>
<p><a href="http://daniandrada.blogspot.com/2011/01/siurana-y-margalef.html" target="_blank">2nd and 3rd ascents Dani Andrada, Oscar Jimenez</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>8b+</p>
<p>F.A. <a href="http://daniel-jung.blogspot.com/2010/12/nice-first-ascent-in-siurana.html" target="_blank">Daniel Jung</a></p>
<p><a href="http://daniandrada.blogspot.com/2011/01/siurana-y-margalef.html" target="_blank">2nd and 3rd ascents Dani Andrada, Oscar Jimenez</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>8b+</p> Renegoidetag:novebi.ning.com,2011-01-20:1389802:Topic:540702011-01-20T15:28:26.954Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" height="5063" width="9000"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=17373644&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"></param><embed allowfullscreen="false" allowscriptaccess="never" height="5063" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=17373644&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="9000" wmode="opaque"></embed> </object>
<p> …</p>
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<p> </p>
<p><object height="745" width="960" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7TThovQGtxY?fs=1&hl=it_IT&hd=1"></param><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param><embed wmode="opaque" height="745" width="960" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7TThovQGtxY?fs=1&hl=it_IT&hd=1" allowscriptaccess="never" allowfullscreen="false" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed> </object>
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<p><object height="6750" width="9000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=19332964&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"></param><embed wmode="opaque" height="6750" width="9000" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=19332964&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=ff9933&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" allowscriptaccess="never" allowfullscreen="false" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed> <param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param></object>
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<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/19332964"><br/></a></p>
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<p>8b+</p> La reina moratag:novebi.ning.com,2010-11-15:1389802:Topic:510232010-11-15T23:02:34.560Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>F.A. Ramon Julian 2008</p>
<p><br/> 8c/+</p>
<p>F.A. Ramon Julian 2008</p>
<p><br/> 8c/+</p> Chikanetag:novebi.ning.com,2010-05-24:1389802:Topic:441612010-05-24T13:11:50.976Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p><object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" height="450" width="800"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="false"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="never"></param><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=11520818&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1"></param><embed allowfullscreen="false" allowscriptaccess="never" height="450" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=11520818&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="800" wmode="opaque"></embed> <param name="wmode" value="opaque"></param></object>
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<p> …</p>
<p></p>
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<p> </p>
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<p> </p>
<p>8c+</p> Xocolate calent, Grau del massetstag:novebi.ning.com,2010-04-12:1389802:Topic:417022010-04-12T15:40:07.278Z9bhttps://novebi.ning.com/profile/9b
<p>F.A. Daniel Jung, 2010/04/06</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Bolted by Christian Winklmair</p>
<p> </p>
<p>17 bouldery moves at the beginning and then perfect rock to the top.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>" <em>I was happy to climb another beautiful line by Christian (thanks), on the left side of leche caliente</em> " (Daniel Jung)</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>8c+</p>
<p>F.A. Daniel Jung, 2010/04/06</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Bolted by Christian Winklmair</p>
<p> </p>
<p>17 bouldery moves at the beginning and then perfect rock to the top.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>" <em>I was happy to climb another beautiful line by Christian (thanks), on the left side of leche caliente</em> " (Daniel Jung)</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>8c+</p>