Frankenjura sport climbing area

[9b]

About 10.000 routes in an area limited at:

- west by the city Bamberg, Erlangen, Fuerth, Nuernberg

- east Amberg-Sulzbach, Bayreuth.

 

Best period: spring and autumn, even if You could be unlucky and get a lot of rain.

If you want to guarantee climbing then go in the summer, the heat isn’t too much of an issue, many of the crags are in the trees so you have direct protection from the sun, but ... You can find humidity and annoying mosquitoes :-)
A car is necessary to get to the crags:

 public transport might cover your major travel there and back, but it won't get you to the crags.

For all driving around, a local map is needed.

If you want to rent a car, fly to Frankfurt-Hahn and drive via Würzburg towards the Frankenjura.

 

 

Type of climbing:

there is a lot of mono, 2/3 fingers pulling, but there are also plenty of excellent routes at all grades.

The rock is generally excellent quality pocketed limestone with vertical to overhanging being the norm.

The routes tend to be short, generally around 10-20m and can be very bouldery.

Where to stay:

Gasthof Eichler is the main Climber’s Campsite, it's friendly and not too busy, with a small bar for a quality beer.

 

Rest days:

there are a couple of swimming pools and plenty of small picturesque villages.

Nurenberg is also worth a day visit too.

 

LINKS:
- ukc
- climb.frankenjura.com
- summitpost

- article

 

 

Blogs

PHOTOS
- 8a.nu
- flickr