Muzzerone sport climbing AREA

[9b]

Muzzerone is an area of quite incredible natural beauty.
Excellent limestone on often painful edges and pockets.
Highly technical and elegant climbing - good footwork essential.
Muzzerone is best suited for those in search of bolts, micro-edges.
There are overhanging sectors, too.

Getting there
Muzzerone is situated 15 km from La Spezia.
Drive towards Portovenere and turn right before reaching Le Grazie (sign posted "Palestra di Roccia").
Follow this for 4km to a fork in the road: turn left and descend past several hairpin bends to Muzzerone.


To sleep:
good refuge (managed by Ettore, cell. 340.8098720, email: [e-mail]) 20 mins from Muzzerone by car and 15 mins on foot via a panoramic path.
The refuge contains 30 beds, a kitchen and large rooms ideal for lectures or lessons.
The sea can be reached in about 20 mins from the refuge, and other paths that lead into the National Park start from here.



Best period: all year round.
All sectors face west are sheltered from the icy northern winds.
In summer in the shade and with the fresh afternoon Mistral.


540 routes in total

Sectors (almost all of them are quite difficult to reach, so Muzzerone is never overcrowded ...):
- Garimpo
- Specchio di Atlantide: it requires finger strength and courage with its Verdonesque
- Atlantide
- Pilastro dei neri
- Pilastro di mezzo
- Thunderdome
- L’intaglio
- Parete centrale
- Cava degli anelli
- Parete delle meraviglie/poveriera
- Polveriera: great for stamina climbs up tufas
- Parete dimenticata
- Pilastro del forte
- La Cajenna
- Pilone di cajenna
- Pilastro del bunker
- Parete striata: uncontaminated and wild, for multi-pitch routes.
- L’oratorio
- Pilastro della discordia
- Mandrachia alta
- Mandrachia bassa.


Other crags within a 50 km radius:
- Gabellaccia: 60 routes up to 8b+, 40 km from La Spezia
- Punta Manara: 60 routes from 5a to 7b+, 50 km from La Spezia
- Deiva Marina: 40 routes from 5a to 7c, 40 km from La Spezia





Link:
- english
- italian