Ginko Biloba and Erboristeria Left Sector

[Roberto Benvenuti]

As promised here's some news on the left sector of Erboristeria the spot for Excellence in Val Pennavaire (Albenga-IT). A few weeks ago, winning a little 'fears on hearsay for wrong bolts and flying stones, we moved on Saturday to see these new pitches. The crag is very beautiful especially in the right side pitches where the wall is about 40 meters high and more without the annoying clogs which is used in the valley; bolts are good fix, with little run out but overall safely. Pay attention because the pitches are still dirty and out of lines (and sometimes even staying on them)something may fall off. From anthology and highly recommended are Mirra 7a+ and Artemisia 7a both 35 mt. long, that i climbed os wondering on every meter! Here you have the pitches starting from the left:

1. Karkadè 7a
3. Arnica 6a+
4. Timo 6b
5. Serpillo 6a
6. Cannamon 6a+
7. Brionica 7a
8. Cumino 6c+
9. Curcuma 6b
10. Henne 6b+
11. Farfara 6c
12. Verbena 6b
13. Ginseng 6c
14. Mirra 7a+
15. Artemisia 7a
16. Senna 7b+
17. Project
18. China Rossa 7b+
19. Project

After the warm up we moved to the right sector and thanks to the wonderful day I decided to send Ginko Biloba a 7c on which I had made one try around one month before after I’ve sent Zenzero. The shot is very nice with 3 bouldery section with 2 not so bad rest. I’ve started very determined but immediately after the first block the rumors were confirmed : a good crimp that was used to jump off was broke. I try to set up the move but I’ve found myself lower and i jump off. Fixed up with another small crimp the second section I descended and I made my good try. This time everything was smooth and the chain is left musketeer docilely. Truly a pleasure to climb like that! In my opinion the rupture of the hold made the shot a little harder than before but not enough to justify a change in the grade.