Golpe de estado, El pati, Siurana

[9b]

F.A. Chris Sharma, today, 17 of december 2008.

(Photo by 9b)


2nd Adam Ondra, 2010/03/13, after a broken hold Chris used.

"Out of shape" because of flu and stomach ache and injury, Adam need 29 tries during 14 days (4 before tendon injury) with strong wind, "some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt".

" I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina)."


1) Direct and bouldery start (9a/+)

2) bad rest:

(Photo by Said Belhaj)

3) Estado critico (originally 8c+/9a, with an hold C. Sharma used, now broken, so actually 9a)

(Photo by 9b)


After his F.A. Chris was unsure about the grade, thinking it's most probably 9b and the route harder than many 9a+s he had climbed:
" I'm still not totally sure on the grade, but it is comparable in some ways to 'Jumbo love' except the bottom is probably harder and the top a bit easier and less overhanging. I'll have to try some other routes to compare a bit more before I'm sure about the grade. " Chris Sharma


Chris bolted the line in november 2007 and worked it in winter 2007.
Success eluded him until an intense 6 days spell resulted in the redpoint reported by Daila Ojeda.


VIDEOclip from Big Up Productions

Find more photos like this on 9b

VIDEOclip by Laurent Tray (click videos gratuites):