Bernabè Fernandez: OPEN discussion

[9b]

Bernabè Fernandez is going to publish here in his new blog his very interesting climbing life.

Soon, You can read and participate here at a CONVERSATION with him, something like this (discussion with Andreas is still open), or Adam Ondra interview:

more than a formal interview, a conversation open to ALL climbers and climbing journalists/web editors.

(Bernabè on his artwork: Chilam balam. Photo by David Munilla)

 

 

Every climber and climbing journalist/web editor is welcome to ask something to Bernabè, in english and spanish.

Just wait Bernabè's answer to the previous question, before writing your question here as a comment.

 

The idea is simple.

Imagine to "speak" with Bernabè for a long period, for example 2 months.

(Bernabè on Chilam Balam, photo by David Munilla ??)

 

 

(If you are not already a member of this site, sign up, then) You write your first question, here as a comment, in english or spanish.

Bernabè, when he wants, when he has time (it's always better to be, for example ... outside on a rock, than in front of a pc ...), writes his own answer in spanish (9b editing will translate it in english).

(photo by David Munilla)

 

After that, another climber can write the second question and Bernabè answers, always when he prefers.

And so on.

Of course Bernabè is totally free to choose which question to answer.

 

Yes, Adam Ondra is going soon to climb Chilam Balam.

(Adam "training" for Chilam balam in Obrint el sistema)

 

So this conversation with Bernabè will last at least after Adam will have climbed the route :-)

 

 

 

(Chris Sharma trying Chilam Balam in 2006. Photo by David Munilla)

 

 

 

ALL THE CLIMBERS who made climbing history AND NOT are very welcome to join this conversation.

It would be  like to be all together in a bar, in front of a beer.

(Photo by Daila Ojeda)

 

 

Like a kind of "party", even if on internet and not necessarly all at the same time.

 

Forever loving our ... more than a "sport" ;-)

[9b]

Bernabè climbing El duende, 9a, 90 meters

 

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Hola desde Malaga !

(photo © 9b)

[9b]

Hola Bernabè !

... Te gusta la cerveza ? ;-)

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

Yo no bebo alcohol, yo prefiero la coca-cola u otros refrescos.

English:

I don't drink alcohol, I prefer coca-cola or other soft drinks.

[9b]

Ok, ok ... and your preferred food ?

Can you suggest a typical food from Malaga and Andalucia ?

What do you eat usually during your climbing days ?

Which was your diet before your best achievements ?

[Erik Ljungmann]

Spanish:

Qué proyectos estás trabajando en este momento? Son las vias que describes en tu blog que tienes resueltas con una sóla caída o son otros más? Cuál es el que está más cerca de caer?

Felicidades por CHilam Balam y todas las demás vías, era momento de que la gente empieze a darle atención a terrible vía!

 

English:

What other projects are you working at the time? Are this ones the routes that you state in your blog to have done with one fall/rest or do you have others as well? Which one is closer of being redpointed?

Congratulations for Chilam Balam and all the other routes, it was time that people start to give attention to that terrible route ! 

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

siempre he comido de todo , normalmente no me privo de nada a la hora de comer.

(photo © 9b)

 

como plato tipico de Malaga me gustan los boquerones en vinagre o la porra antequerana, etc.

y cuando escalo desayuno fuerte y ceno fuerte por la tarde al medio dia tomo algo de asimilación rapida como frutos secos...

 

English:

I have always eaten everything, I normally don't deprive myself of anything when eating.
As typical dish from Malaga I like  boquerones en vinagre or porra antequerana, etc.
And when I climb I eat a lot for breakfast and dinner, during the day I eat some quick assimilation food, such as fruit, nuts, ...

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

muchas gracias Erik estoy terminando el blog y espero poder dejar claras muchas cosas.

respecto a las vias que estoy haciendo ahora: hace un año tuve una lesion que me a mantenido apartado un poco de la deportiva, los tres proyectos que equipe eran de 9a y los deje con una caida a punto de hacerlos,mientras recuperaba me dedique a abrir vias desde abajo de clasica en el chorro.

De todos modos la semana pasada puse la expres de nuevo en uno de los 9a para retomar lo dejado ya que me encuentro mejor 

 

English:

Erik thank you very much I am finishing the blog and I hope to clear many things.
Regarding the routes I'm doing now: a year ago I had an injury that has kept me a little apart from sport climbing, the three projects I equipped are 9a and I climbed all of them with one fall, while I was recuperating I opened some routes from the ground in El Chorro.
Anyway, last week I put the draws into one of the 9a projects of mine and I feel better. 

[Erik Ljungmann]

Spanish:

Que se mejore el hombro, aunque como me han dicho, el día en que no te duele más nada, es que ya estás muerto, ja! Estuve leyendo el comentario de David Munilla sobre que vió tanto a Adam como ti escalar con la misma fluidez la Chilam Balam (por lo que he visto de Duende, tu escalada es más pausada de la del mutante checo).

Cómo fue ver a alguien escalar de la misma manera que ti la vía? Lo digo, porque no creo que escales con amigos de la capacidad de Adam. Fue reconfortante que vengan a probar la via en vez de hablar y que le dé un 9 sobre 10 a la vía? Por otro lado, los proyectos de 9a son de resistencia o hay alguno más bloquero? También leí con agrado lo que dijo Malcolm Smith de tí cuando estabas con Duende (el británico se quejaba de su falta de resistencia en una via de 25 metros y te veia a ti en una de 90m...), por lo que te pregunto si has escalado con muchos escaladores de los "conocidos" y de si han probado vias juntos? Perdona por la cantidad de preguntas y saludos desde Argentina!

 

English:

Have an improvement to your shoulder, but as they  said, the day when anything hurts, you're dead, ha ha!

I was reading the comment by David Munilla who saw both Adam and you climb Chilam Balam with the same fluidity (from what I've seen in El duende, your climbing is slower than that of the Czech mutant).

How was looking at someone climbing the route (Chilam Balam) in the same way as you (in terms of smoothness and effectiveness, according to David Munilla) ? Was it heartwarming to see that top climbers come to try the route instead of talking and give the route a personal grade of 9/10? Are your 9a projects all of endurance or are some more of pure power? Have you tried or climbed any particular route with a "known" climber (media wise)?

Sorry for all the questions and greetings from Argentina!

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

me alegre de que alguien por fin repitiera la vía, siempre dije que solo era cuestión de fondo, que los pasos no eran tan dificiles. es bonito ver como evoluciona la escalada y lo que parecía imposible, unos años despues no lo es tanto, esto es algo que llevamos viendo desde que la escalada empezó, no me extrañaría que el 10a no estuviera muy lejos.

mis proyecto ultimos tienen unos 50 metros, la verdad es que lo que equipo es simplemente lo que me trasmite algo, el lugar, la pared, normalmente equipo casi siempre en zonas nuevas , me gusta descubrir nuevos sectores y el tipo de via va cambiando con la epoca, hace muchos años equipaba explosivas ahora suelen ser mas largas.

Cuando competia en las internacionales escalaba aveces con algunos escaladores de nivel de la epoca, de esto te estoy hablando hace 20 años, pero luego me centre con mis proyectos y aqui la verdad es que poca gente bajaba a probarlos . 

(photo © 9b)

 

English:

I'm glad someone finally repeated the route , I always said it was only a matter of endurance, that moves were not so difficult. It's nice to see how climbing evolves and what seemed impossible a few years ago now it is not so, this is something we have been seeing since the evolution began, it would not surprise me that 10a was not far away.

my last project was about 50 meters, the truth is that whatever I bolt gives me a good feeling , the place, the wall, usually I bolt almost always in new areas, I like to discover new areas and the style of route changes over time, for many years I bolted bouldery routes but now they tend to be longer.

20 years ago, when I competed in international competitions, sometimes I climbed with some top climbers of that period, but later on I focused on my projects and the truth is that few people come down here to try them.

(photo © 9b)

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