|When someone explores and finds a new crag,and after careful inspection and judgement,decides weather to bolt the route or not.................
Some routes are there "calling to be climbed" as to quote Chris Sharma.
obviously the very steep overhanging stuff,is easier(ethically not phisically)to bolt,than big vertical stretches of sea cliffs,where for example the first one third of it is a jugfest,then the middle part provides a layback deep crack,which could swallow nuts and friends like christmas chocolates:),and then the last sections have blank glassy stone with a few kinky dynos between the only few slots,just enough needed to make it through...
It surely is a sin to bolt trad protectable cracks,and quite a madness not to bolt where nothing protectable exists...
As i always beleived, that bolting new routes is just a self expression,and a respectful interaction bewtween we and the stone,i have to conclude that bolting routes for OTHER people is erratic and unrespectful to nature!
Guess the old school approach to runout as possible the bolts,not bolt protectable sections and bolt quite closely when the going gets really "relatively" tough...is what i feel is right

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45 meter unclimbed sea cliff
As my opinion, I just moved this discussion in "mixed sport and trad singlepitches" category :-)
Thanks seems its the most appropriate category..Also need find some time,to explore this site well,so i don't leave a mess of random postings evertwhere;)
The problem is that I'm not able to explain well how this site works ...
If You have questions, just write them here.
More and more I try, where possible, to place the bolts exactly in the middle of hard moves, this protects you properly and, more importantly, allows you (and other people) to work the moves out easily. Although a routes character is a personal expression, I feel if you are actually going to bolt, it should be done so that everybody will enjoy climbing the route.

Safe runouts are ok if the climbing is easier and flowing, its nice to have the last bolt below you! Also it allows your climbing to flow more. In the hard sections you want the protection to allow easy practice of moves. That said every situation is unique, consider the history and character of existing routes in the vicinity before determining your strategy.

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Sell on 9b your climbing topos to other world climbers !

Posted by 9b on March 1, 2013 at 4:00pm 0 Comments

27cragsclimbervoice8a and many others are amazing sites, but sometimes, expecially if you worked a lot to envision, bolt, clean routes or boulders, you want to monetize a little your efforts.

9b can help you in this aim.


As you can see here, in 9b there are many " topo groups ".


You can add a discussion in every "topo group".

In your discussion you can edit and publish your own climbing topoguide, as a "paywall", a "destination page", requiring climbers their payment by credit card or paypal to access and read, even on SMARTPHONES (iphones, android phones, ...)


After having paid, climbers can see, save and print your climbing topoguide.


In this discussion you can add:


1) PHOTOS regarding one specific SECTOR (of routes or bouldering, dws lines)


a) "PHOTO topo":

It's very easy to edit a photo topo:

- upload a photo of a rock in a topo group discussion

- drawn the lines

- write names and grades (an example…



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