Opening New Routes on high seacliffs runout the bolts or not?

[Jeff]

|When someone explores and finds a new crag,and after careful inspection and judgement,decides weather to bolt the route or not.................
Some routes are there "calling to be climbed" as to quote Chris Sharma.
obviously the very steep overhanging stuff,is easier(ethically not phisically)to bolt,than big vertical stretches of sea cliffs,where for example the first one third of it is a jugfest,then the middle part provides a layback deep crack,which could swallow nuts and friends like christmas chocolates:),and then the last sections have blank glassy stone with a few kinky dynos between the only few slots,just enough needed to make it through...
It surely is a sin to bolt trad protectable cracks,and quite a madness not to bolt where nothing protectable exists...
As i always beleived, that bolting new routes is just a self expression,and a respectful interaction bewtween we and the stone,i have to conclude that bolting routes for OTHER people is erratic and unrespectful to nature!
Guess the old school approach to runout as possible the bolts,not bolt protectable sections and bolt quite closely when the going gets really "relatively" tough...is what i feel is right

[Jeff]

45 meter unclimbed sea cliff

[9b editor]

As my opinion, I just moved this discussion in "mixed sport and trad singlepitches" category :-)

[Jeff]

Thanks seems its the most appropriate category..Also need find some time,to explore this site well,so i don't leave a mess of random postings evertwhere;)

[9b editor]

The problem is that I'm not able to explain well how this site works ...
If You have questions, just write them here.

[Greg Hart]

More and more I try, where possible, to place the bolts exactly in the middle of hard moves, this protects you properly and, more importantly, allows you (and other people) to work the moves out easily. Although a routes character is a personal expression, I feel if you are actually going to bolt, it should be done so that everybody will enjoy climbing the route.

Safe runouts are ok if the climbing is easier and flowing, its nice to have the last bolt below you! Also it allows your climbing to flow more. In the hard sections you want the protection to allow easy practice of moves. That said every situation is unique, consider the history and character of existing routes in the vicinity before determining your strategy.