In 2009, before Adam Ondra was arriving to visit our local crags, I had the idea to bolt (and with Eugenio Pesci I started to bolt) the following link:


- a traverse to the left (about 5 meters) from the anchor of Miss Lily,

about 5 meters of a fingery boulder (maybe more than 8a boulder ...)

a traverse (another about 5 meters) to the right, to reach an old high project (to the right of Vento nei Capelli)

- a second boulder (maybe more than 8b boulder ...) to enter in the overhanging zone (at least 40 meters on technical overhanging - not so dirty, but still to clean -, bolted by Ciusse)

All natural, about 70 meters.


When Adam arrived, 9 of april 2009, cecked this line and judged it:

"maybe impossible or ... maybe for the future".

Unfortunely Adam doesn't like to place an anchor in the middle of the wall ....

And just the link could be 9b ...

Maybe is it really an "Impossible" LOVE ? ;-)




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Luna, like a dream

Posted by 9b on January 7, 2016 at 5:00pm 0 Comments

Italiano qui.

(photo by Mike Hill)







convince.jpg

 

Yes Yan.

 

At first, your idea was about going on bolting around Baunei.

 

Then, I wrote You the Dorgali Municipality is going to rebolt around Cala Gonone.

I gave you these informations: after…

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Giuliano Cameroni: strong fingers, a kind mother, 16 years old ...

Posted by 9b on February 13, 2014 at 7:30pm 0 Comments

... and a future of hard boulders and (short) routes !

 

 

 

 

35 minutes.

This is the driving distance between Giuliano's house and the closiest boulders.

Not so bad.

The only problem is that when you are 16 years old, You can't drive the car.

No worries, if you have a kind mother, problem is solved  :-)

She drives him to the rocks, so he can climb something like this, then, after bouldering, he takes the train to come back home.

 

Ciao Giuliano,

how are you so strong ?! How much do you train ?

CIAO :-)

I CLIMB ON BOULDERS ABOUT 4 TIMES A WEEK, ON PLASTIC NOT SO MUCH, WHEN IT RAINS

 

Where do you climb usually ?

I CLIMB IN TICINO, MAGIC WOOD, SUSTEN, ... SOMETIMES IN FONT AND DURING THE HOLIDAYS OUT OF EUROPE TOO.

 

Who are your bouldering friends ?

I CLIMB WITH FRIENDS FROM TICINO AND WALLIS. SOMETIMES WITH MY FATHER AND MY BROTHER.

 

 

How is Giuliano Cameroni as a climber…

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