Palestina, Valdecabras Sur

[9b]

F.A. David López Campe, 2012
2nd a. Luis Alfonso

3rd a. A. Ondra, after the following on sight attempt:

From spanish to english:

" Conditions were perfect but I wasn’t too sure whether the route fits my style but in the end I decided to try it, to see what could happen.
Towards the end I was very very close, I was very surprised.

There is a boulder problem at the start of the roof. Here I fought a lot but with a bit of luck I passed and then I kept going, I kept going. I made a mistake by not taking a good hold but I had a rest nearby where I felt pretty good, at the end of the roof.

Then I thought it could get better/easier, it wasn’t so steep.
After the rest I took a crimper that looked good but then I saw there was another crimper too. But I was climbing very slowly after that. On a small hold I didn’t know whether to crimp or not, then I took another small hold and then I fell because I made the big mistake of not climbing much faster.

But it I was really close and I think that 9a on-sight is possible and it’s important to have confidence in that now.”

9a