F.A. Chris Sharma, today, 17 of december 2008.

 

(Photo by 9b)


2nd Adam Ondra, 2010/03/13, after a broken hold Chris used.

"Out of shape" because of flu and stomach ache and injury, Adam need 29 tries during 14 days (4 before tendon injury) with strong wind, "some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt".

 


" I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina)."


1) Direct and bouldery start (9a/+)


2) bad rest:

(Photo by Said Belhaj)

3) Estado critico (originally 8c+/9a, with an hold C. Sharma used, now broken, so actually 9a)


(Photo by 9b)


After his F.A. Chris was unsure about the grade, thinking it's most probably 9b and the route harder than many 9a+s he had climbed:
" I'm still not totally sure on the grade, but it is comparable in some ways to 'Jumbo love' except the bottom is probably harder and the top a bit easier and less overhanging. I'll have to try some other routes to compare a bit more before I'm sure about the grade. " Chris Sharma


Chris bolted the line in november 2007 and worked it in winter 2007.
Success eluded him until an intense 6 days spell resulted in the redpoint reported by Daila Ojeda.


VIDEOclip from Big Up Productions

Find more photos like this on 9b

VIDEOclip by Laurent Tray (click videos gratuites):

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Blog Posts

Luna, like a dream

Posted by 9b on January 7, 2016 at 5:00pm 0 Comments

Italiano qui.

(photo by Mike Hill)







convince.jpg

 

Yes Yan.

 

At first, your idea was about going on bolting around Baunei.

 

Then, I wrote You the Dorgali Municipality is going to rebolt around Cala Gonone.

I gave you these informations: after…

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Giuliano Cameroni: strong fingers, a kind mother, 16 years old ...

Posted by 9b on February 13, 2014 at 7:30pm 0 Comments

... and a future of hard boulders and (short) routes !

 

 

 

 

35 minutes.

This is the driving distance between Giuliano's house and the closiest boulders.

Not so bad.

The only problem is that when you are 16 years old, You can't drive the car.

No worries, if you have a kind mother, problem is solved  :-)

She drives him to the rocks, so he can climb something like this, then, after bouldering, he takes the train to come back home.

 

Ciao Giuliano,

how are you so strong ?! How much do you train ?

CIAO :-)

I CLIMB ON BOULDERS ABOUT 4 TIMES A WEEK, ON PLASTIC NOT SO MUCH, WHEN IT RAINS

 

Where do you climb usually ?

I CLIMB IN TICINO, MAGIC WOOD, SUSTEN, ... SOMETIMES IN FONT AND DURING THE HOLIDAYS OUT OF EUROPE TOO.

 

Who are your bouldering friends ?

I CLIMB WITH FRIENDS FROM TICINO AND WALLIS. SOMETIMES WITH MY FATHER AND MY BROTHER.

 

 

How is Giuliano Cameroni as a climber…

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