An option to obtain legal authorization to bolt NEW routes around Cala Gonone

Almost all the Sardinian coast is SIC, Site of Community Importance.

You can see the SIC areas in the:

Generally speaking, this means You can not modify that places, in no way, bolting included.

To bolt in SIC area is criminal offense.

Then, every local Municipality, after Sardegna Region (supervisor of Sic areas) authorization, can modify sic rules, in its own way.

Baunei Municipality, for example, with this local law, if you ask them, allows new routes bolting:

Per l’apertura di nuove vie di arrampicata con il sistema della chiodatura, con l’utilizzo di protezioni fisse., è necessario informare preventivamente il Comune (To bolt new climbing routes with the bolting system, with fixed protections, You must inform the Municipality in advance)”.

Dorgali Municipality has no similar law, so, if you ask authorization to Dorgali Municipality to bolt new routes, it’s quite difficult, if not impossible, they give it.

At the same time, after 3 years, Dorgali Municipality obtained (translation here) from Sardegna Region authorization not to bolt new routes, but to rebolt old routes, as a kind of derogation from sic rules.

To prevent and avoid accidents (if an accident occurs, to prevent others, they can prohibit all, not only bolting, but even climbing).

So now they can buy bolts to (give bolters to) rebolt old routes.

The first option is they pay the bolting work, but, in this case, it will be difficult they can buy titanium bolts, as they should do, according to this warning.

A possible, second option, IF MANY BOLTERS ASK IT with this LETTER, is they could “pay” the rebolting work giving not money, but their:

- authorization to bolt a NEW route, for every old route rebolted 

- bolts (the first 2, the 2 at the anchor, the anchor itself in titanium) to rebolt OLD routes AND TO BOLT NEW ROUTES


So, it will be easier to obtain authorization to bolt NEW routes inside and around Colombi cave, if the proposal from MANY bolters (in a kind of “bolters party”), sending this LETTER to local Municipality, would be:

For every single NEW route you authorize me to bolt, with Your bolts/anchor, I first re-bolt an OLD one, with your bolts/anchor”.


You can ask them authorization just to bolt new routes, without any rebolting (their number 1 priority), but the risk they say "no" would be higher.


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Posted by 9b on March 1, 2013 at 4:00pm 0 Comments

27cragsclimbervoice8a and many others are amazing sites, but sometimes, expecially if you worked a lot to envision, bolt, clean routes or boulders, you want to monetize a little your efforts.

9b can help you in this aim.


As you can see here, in 9b there are many " topo groups ".


You can add a discussion in every "topo group".

In your discussion you can edit and publish your own climbing topoguide, as a "paywall", a "destination page", requiring climbers their payment by credit card or paypal to access and read, even on SMARTPHONES (iphones, android phones, ...)


After having paid, climbers can see, save and print your climbing topoguide.


In this discussion you can add:


1) PHOTOS regarding one specific SECTOR (of routes or bouldering, dws lines)


a) "PHOTO topo":

It's very easy to edit a photo topo:

- upload a photo of a rock in a topo group discussion

- drawn the lines

- write names and grades (an example…



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