2/3 days ago, 17 years after Alex Huber first ascent (1992), Adam Ondra repeated Om, in Endstal, Germany.
As always for his super hard routes climbing, Adam has written a very interesting article with photos here in his own Magazine
, really "Open air" for world climbers.
Power-endurance route with an extremely difficult boulder sequence, in sport climbing history Om was the second 9a
after Action directe
Huber gave Om 8c+ just because at that time Action direct was given 8c+/9a.
Alex Huber on Om, photo by Heinz Zak
A rumour about a broken hold has been dismissed by Huber:
"No, no "key hold" has broken.
The only thing is that… Let me explain:
on the crux, you have to make a really long move from an undercling pocket to a sloping edge.
Having caught the edge, you must get your foot into that same pocket, first you have to get your fingers out, of course.
When I did this highstep, to keep my balance, I used not really a hold, more of a really tiny knob. Anyway this non-hold has now broken, but there are similar knobs you can use instead, and crux is not really to get your foot in, it's rather the really long lock-off that follows.
Endstal is a 500 metre high limestone cliff situated in Southern Germany.
The crag is located somewhere in the Berchtesgaden National Park where climbing is tolerated but isn't officially allowed.
The routes are mainly crimpy and vertical/slightly overhanging.