world CLIMBERS party
Cala luna is really a place to love.
It would be such a pity to destroy this climbers PARADISE.
Where else You can combine in the same place sport climbing and deep water soloing (psicobloc) ??
In Kalymnos there is not so much deep water soloing.
In Mallorca crags are far from psicobloc, You need a car.
In Cala Barques there is no sport climbing.
In Cala Luna You don't need a car, nor a scooter.
You don't need to pay a studio, or a camping:
in Cala Luna, close to the restaurant, the camping is FREE.
So, first of all, try to understand the following WARNING:
- even if to sleep inside the caves could seem better (but it's NOT because there are many RATS !), please, sleep close to the restaurant, that has a toilet, where You can take free drinkable water.
The last cave is already a "toilet cave" ... but there is space for possible nice future lines !
- please, don't make fires under the rocks, even if not bolted (You can bolt many new lines, please, NO CHIPPING ! )
- please, don't climb when tourists are down and watching You, invite them to move away: if just a little stone goes down to them, sea police could forbid climbing in all Cala Luna !
- bring back to Your car ALL Your garbage
Cala Luna is a big, fantastic beach, with a lot of tourists (and beautiful women ;-) in summer.
You can stay close (not under !) the rocks with babies too.
Fly to Cagliari or Alghero with Ryanair.
Cagliari airport is well served for buses.
There is a bus into town from the airport each half hour (xx15 xx45) and it takes 10′ to the bus station in the centre of town.
Check times in ARST website.
It's in Italian, so:
FER = Mon to Sat
GIOR = every day.
From Cagliari take a bus to Cala Gonone, or rent a car (http://www.economycarrentals.com/).
From Cala Gonone take a boat to Cala Luna in the port, or walk to Cala Luna.
There are 2 paths:
- one (less than 2 hours) from from Cala Fuili (about 3/4 kms from Cala Gonone), that you can reach walking or hitchiking from Cala Gonone.
- one other (not more than 1 hour) from Buchi Arta (MAP here).
To reach Buchi Arta ( where there is a crag too with many easy routes and another one hidden where you can bolt new routes), you need the car:
driving from Dorgali, before Cala Gonone, take right and then left to Nuraghe Mannu.
(The road to Buchi Arta)
Before the end of the road, You can see Cala Luna written in red on a stone, park Your car and go down the path.
At the first cross, go right.
After 30 mins walking down, take left, when You see the following crag (to bolt, please, NO CHIPPING !) at Your right:
(the sector bolted in december 2015, topo here)
To reach Cala Luna (another 30 min), enter the following valley ("codula"):
You can find strange but nice flowers :-)
10 minutes before reaching the beach, You can see at Your left a fantastic cave:
there is just one bolted line, so, take Your drill with You, come on !
(Please, NO CHIPPING !)
(the big cave close to the restaurant, bolted in december 2015, topo here)
Closier to the restaurant, there is another overhanging nice crag to bolt (please, NO CHIPPING !):
If You want to bolt (please, NO CHIPPING !), there are many other crags around in the valley:
All the area, from the parking to the beach, could become something about 600 routes ...
From september to december and from april to june, when You can swim too.
In july and august there is often wind (more than inside the "codula").
Caves ("grottoni") have shadow starting from 2 p.m.
After 2, tourists mainly move from the caves to the beach to take sun.
Winter is good, but the bar/restaurant closes the half/end of october and opens the beginning of april.
If not free camping (a shower 2 euros) close to the bar/restaurant, to ceck all other many crags around Cala Gonone and Dorgali (in summer don't miss Noce secca, Genna Silana and Serra Oseli !) You can rent an apartment (13/15 € per person/day):
- Giampaolo Mura (firstname.lastname@example.org).
- Signora Cenza +39 078493213
Other owners of appartmenst are:
e-mail : email@example.com
Hotels in Cala Gonone and Dorgali.
If You need other addresses, You can find them in the guidebook, You can buy it in the village.
If You don't want to buy the guidebook, just ask in the village.
Almost all the Sardinian coast is SIC, Site of Community Importance.
You can see the SIC areas in the:
This means You can not modify that places, in no way, bolting included.
To bolt in SIC area is criminal offense.
Then, every local Municipality, after Sardegna Region (supervisor of Sic areas) authorization, can modify sic rules, in its own way.
Baunei Municipality, for example, with this local law, if you ask them, allows new routes bolting:
“ Per l’apertura di nuove vie di arrampicata con il sistema della chiodatura, con l’utilizzo di protezioni fisse., è necessario informare preventivamente il Comune (To bolt new climbing routes with the bolting system, with fixed protections, You must inform the Municipality in advance)”.
Dorgali Municipality has no similar law, so, if you ask authorization to Dorgali Municipality to bolt new routes, it’s quite difficult, if not impossible, they give it.
At the same time, after 3 years, Dorgali Municipality obtained (translation here) from Sardegna Region authorization not to bolt new routes, but to rebolt old routes, as a kind of derogation from sic rules.
To prevent and avoid accidents (if an accident occurs, to prevent others, they can prohibit all, not only bolting, but even climbing).
So now they can buy bolts to rebolt old routes.
The first option is they buy A4 bolts and pay the bolting work, but, in this case, it will be difficult they can buy titanium bolts.
A possible, second option, IF MANY BOLTERS ASK IT with this LETTER, is they could “pay” the rebolting work giving not money, but their:
- bolts (4 in titanium: the first 2 and the 2 at the anchor) to rebolt OLD routes
- authorization to bolt a NEW route, for every old route rebolted
- 4 titanium bolts ( the first 2 and the 2 at the anchor) for every NEW route
- titanium anchors for every route, old and new.
So, it will be easier to obtain authorization to bolt NEW routes inside and around Colombi cave, if the proposal from MANY bolters (in a kind of “bolters party”) to local Municipality would be:
“ For every single NEW route you authorize me to bolt, with my and Your bolts, with your anchor, I first re-bolt an OLD one, with your bolts and anchor”.