F.A. Adam Ondra (8c+ bouldery route on sight and 8b/+ boulder flash in 2009, Bouldering World Cup winner in 2010), 2011/02/16

 

" An extremely bouldery route which took 7 days this trip and 2 days last year ".

 

Sorry for the following bad photos (as usual,  use is possible with link to this page from websites or credit to this site from printed magazines ) ... just to let you see the line and some move :-)

The route is to the left of Jungle speed.

Really bouldery route: the main difficulty is concentrated in just around 4 bolts.

Estimated section by section grades:

after a 7a+/b boulder, there is an 8a+ boulder section ...




... then another 8a+/b boulder






No good rest between the boulders.

 


The 3 bouldering problems could eventually be compared to something like a long 8c boulder.

 



The last really hard move is before the following foot-hook:

 

The first, old sequence for the lower crux and the following dynos:

 

 


After the 3 boulders there is a final 7c+ route section (about 7 meters):


A tricky move just before the anchor.

" Bearing in mind the effort, it could be 9b, but I am not sure at all.

Would have been definitely 9b if I hadn't figured out better sequence for the lower crux, as I had the sequence I had thought it would be a quick work and 9a+ but in the end I fell nine times in the higher crux...

Time will tell "

 

9b, the first "9bouldery" route in sport climbing history and the first 9b proposed by Adam.

(Adam and his belaying friend the day before his ascent)

 

 

The 15 mt route is not a link-up and was bolted in 1996 by visionary, generous and no chipping David and Carles Brascò (source: D. Brascò and N. Campillo guidebook).

 

Links:

- 1 (spanish), english

- 2

 

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Luna, like a dream

Posted by 9b on January 7, 2016 at 5:00pm 0 Comments

Italiano qui.

(photo by Mike Hill)







convince.jpg

 

Yes Yan.

 

At first, your idea was about going on bolting around Baunei.

 

Then, I wrote You the Dorgali Municipality is going to rebolt around Cala Gonone.

I gave you these informations: after…

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Giuliano Cameroni: strong fingers, a kind mother, 16 years old ...

Posted by 9b on February 13, 2014 at 7:30pm 0 Comments

... and a future of hard boulders and (short) routes !

 

 

 

 

35 minutes.

This is the driving distance between Giuliano's house and the closiest boulders.

Not so bad.

The only problem is that when you are 16 years old, You can't drive the car.

No worries, if you have a kind mother, problem is solved  :-)

She drives him to the rocks, so he can climb something like this, then, after bouldering, he takes the train to come back home.

 

Ciao Giuliano,

how are you so strong ?! How much do you train ?

CIAO :-)

I CLIMB ON BOULDERS ABOUT 4 TIMES A WEEK, ON PLASTIC NOT SO MUCH, WHEN IT RAINS

 

Where do you climb usually ?

I CLIMB IN TICINO, MAGIC WOOD, SUSTEN, ... SOMETIMES IN FONT AND DURING THE HOLIDAYS OUT OF EUROPE TOO.

 

Who are your bouldering friends ?

I CLIMB WITH FRIENDS FROM TICINO AND WALLIS. SOMETIMES WITH MY FATHER AND MY BROTHER.

 

 

How is Giuliano Cameroni as a climber…

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