La capella, La capella

[9b]

F.A. Adam Ondra (8c+ bouldery route on sight and 8b/+ boulder flash in 2009, Bouldering World Cup winner in 2010), 2011/02/16

 

" An extremely bouldery route which took 7 days this trip and 2 days last year ".

 

Sorry for the following bad photos (as usual,  use is possible with link to this page from websites or credit to this site from printed magazines ) ... just to let you see the line and some move :-)

The route is to the left of Jungle speed.

Really bouldery route: the main difficulty is concentrated in just around 4 bolts.

Estimated section by section grades:

after a 7a+/b boulder, there is an 8a+ boulder section ...

... then another 8a+/b boulder

No good rest between the boulders.

 

The 3 bouldering problems could eventually be compared to something like a long 8c boulder.

 

The last really hard move is before the following foot-hook:

 

The first, old sequence for the lower crux and the following dynos:

 

After the 3 boulders there is a final 7c+ route section (about 7 meters):

A tricky move just before the anchor.

" Bearing in mind the effort, it could be 9b, but I am not sure at all.

Would have been definitely 9b if I hadn't figured out better sequence for the lower crux, as I had the sequence I had thought it would be a quick work and 9a+ but in the end I fell nine times in the higher crux...

Time will tell "

 

9b, the first "9bouldery" route in sport climbing history and the first 9b proposed by Adam.

(Adam and his belaying friend the day before his ascent)

 

 

The 15 mt route is not a link-up and was bolted in 1996 by visionary, generous and no chipping David and Carles Brascò (source: D. Brascò and N. Campillo guidebook).

 

Links:

- 1 (spanish), english

- 2