F.A. Adam Ondra (8c+ bouldery route on sight and 8b/+ boulder flash in 2009, Bouldering World Cup winner in 2010), 2011/02/16

 

" An extremely bouldery route which took 7 days this trip and 2 days last year ".

 

Sorry for the following bad photos (as usual,  use is possible with link to this page from websites or credit to this site from printed magazines ) ... just to let you see the line and some move :-)

The route is to the left of Jungle speed.

Really bouldery route: the main difficulty is concentrated in just around 4 bolts.

Estimated section by section grades:

after a 7a+/b boulder, there is an 8a+ boulder section ...




... then another 8a+/b boulder






No good rest between the boulders.

 


The 3 bouldering problems could eventually be compared to something like a long 8c boulder.

 



The last really hard move is before the following foot-hook:

 

The first, old sequence for the lower crux and the following dynos:

 

 


After the 3 boulders there is a final 7c+ route section (about 7 meters):


A tricky move just before the anchor.

" Bearing in mind the effort, it could be 9b, but I am not sure at all.

Would have been definitely 9b if I hadn't figured out better sequence for the lower crux, as I had the sequence I had thought it would be a quick work and 9a+ but in the end I fell nine times in the higher crux...

Time will tell "

 

9b, the first "9bouldery" route in sport climbing history and the first 9b proposed by Adam.

(Adam and his belaying friend the day before his ascent)

 

 

The 15 mt route is not a link-up and was bolted in 1996 by visionary, generous and no chipping David and Carles Brascò (source: D. Brascò and N. Campillo guidebook).

 

Links:

- 1 (spanish), english

- 2

 

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The really first ever film with Adam Ondra: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?p=PL80AA5B5B12EB7BFD

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Sell on 9b your climbing topos to other world climbers !

Posted by 9b on March 1, 2013 at 4:00pm 0 Comments

27cragsclimbervoice8a and many others are amazing sites, but sometimes, expecially if you worked a lot to envision, bolt, clean routes or boulders, you want to monetize a little your efforts.

9b can help you in this aim.

 

As you can see here, in 9b there are many " topo groups ".

 

You can add a discussion in every "topo group".

In your discussion you can edit and publish your own climbing topoguide, as a "paywall", a "destination page", requiring climbers their payment by credit card or paypal to access and read, even on SMARTPHONES (iphones, android phones, ...)

 

After having paid, climbers can see, save and print your climbing topoguide.

 

In this discussion you can add:

 

1) PHOTOS regarding one specific SECTOR (of routes or bouldering, dws lines)

 

a) "PHOTO topo":

It's very easy to edit a photo topo:

- upload a photo of a rock in a topo group discussion

- drawn the lines

- write names and grades (an example…

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