OPEN INTERVIEW to ... ADAM ONDRA

[9b]

" Es como de otro planeta ".
( It's as if he's from another planet ).

Dani Andrada dixit.

All climbers know who is Adam Ondra.
His palmares at 8a.nu ( routes and boulders ), at his age, is just crazy.

" It's finished for us guys ! This kid is the new school " Tony Lamiche said at Melloblocco.
He is re-defining sport climbing standards.
And breaking barriers.

Adam is also an open minded person, so he accepted a different kind of interview.
Why different ?
Because, WE, climbers, climbing journalists AND NOT, we all can ... write here our questions for him !

I was so happy when reading his following words:
" I totally agree with your questions and questions from you readers. That is for sure good idea to ask what climbers want to know. "
Thank You Adam :-) !

Lot of cooperative and partecipative power occurs to interview Adam, so, what would YOU ask to him ?

No problem if You are a 10-15 years old climber: You can write here Your questions, may be Yours will be the best ones !

Please, in order to help Adam, just give a number to Your questions between others, thanks.


(Adam on Martin Krpan 9a, Misja Pec)


Let's start.

Dear Adam,

first of all, THANK YOU !

here are my questions.

To answer the questions, You can register here, take Your profile as a kind of "pre-interview" and then write Your answers directly on comments' space of this post .

You can choose everything:

- the questions You like to answer or not
- when write Your answers
- if write all the answers together or not (may be the best is 1 answer a day, then another answer another day and so on).

It's totally up to You.

"WHY SO STRONG" questions:

1 - for sure You are a climbing wizard, do You like to be called " Harry Potter " :-) ?

2 - Which are Your secrets ? How did You improve so fast ?

3 - Cleverness, technical skills, weight, training, power of mind, travelling, age, ... etc, God ? :-): can You try to give a value, if not a percentage, to the various components, to explain us Your performances ?

4 - How is Your training ? Is it true that You don't use neither hanging board nor pan gullich ?

5 - How would You suggest to other climbers to train to have some good results ?

Adam Ondra in Spain ||| February 07
Caricato da jardcs

(Adam in Catalunya, Spain, 2007)


6 - Pete O'Donovan wrote about a new "dynamic technique": not just the " odd lunge, but move after move of calculated and accurate dynos ": what do you think about it ?
In Your opinion, is this so effective to minimize power expenditure ?

7 - On La Rambla, in order to reduce rope-drag, You missed out several of the clips on the upper section, risking big falls if You came off: it seems You like the “climb more clip less “ style :-) ! Isn'it ?

8 - Recently, You onsighted "The snatch" (7c) a serious highball in Cresciano: how do You fight (and win ...) against Your fears and risks ?

"TRAVELLING & languages CLIMBING " questions:

9 - I see You are a " traveller climber ": how much is important to travel for Your climbing ?

10 - Did You know many foreigner climbers in Your climbing travels ? How was Your feeling with them, their culture and languages ?

(Adam in Santa Linya, Spain, speaking with Chris Sharma and climbing "Fuck the system", 9a)

11 - How much is important for You and Your climbing practicing foreigner languages ?


"Past, present, FUTURE" questions:

12 - Do You know some of the climbing pioneers and legends ? Which inspire You the most ? Why ?

13 - Which are the climbers in the world who are now inspiring and impressing You the most ? Why ?

14 - You recently said: “definitely todays hardest routes are far below the human maximum”, then I read You think is possible to climb 9c after work and 9a onsight.
In which way You imagine a 9c route ?
Which grade do You think is possible to reach in bouldering ?
In sport multipitches ?


( "final" boulder, 7c+/8a, on the outdoor bouldering competition Hudy Boulder Cup 2007)

15 - You said now You would like to climb some bouldery 9as and we see You are " training " (!?) on super fast super hard boulder ascents, in Melloblocco too:

After Action Directe and other bouldery 9a routes, which other routes are You interested to climb ? Biographie-Realization ? Coupe de grace ? Neanderthal ? Akira ? Ali Hulk sit start ? Chilam Balam ? Which other routes are You dreaming ? (updated sep. '08: Jumbo love ? :-)
Or You prefer to open a new project from Yours close to Your house ?

16 - What do You think about the proposal to share and confirm a 9b route ? ;-)

17 - I read You said: “ Terribly hard is to compare endurance routes with bouldery ones, so one cannot compare Moravian Karst and Spain too much. Generally I think following:
in Spain you need only power and knowledge of how to depump on a jug (some better technique makes it only a bit easier).
In the Frankenjura you need brutal power (a lot more than in Spain), you have to figure out how to climb it.
And in Karst you need power, learn how to climb it and in addition you have to be able to stand on slippery footholds.
In the conclusion it looks that you feel the same in every route with the only difference - in Spain you do on 2nd attempt, in Jura on 10th one, in Karst on 20th.. ":
if You do two routes of the "same" grade and to climb the first one You need 2 tries (updated nov. 08), the second one 20 tries ... I guess the second route is ... harder than the first one ... is it right ? One million dollars question ...


("Sanjski par", 9a, Misja pec, Slovenia)

18 - What about vertical, technical, fingerpower "old school" walls ?
May You write here Your sensations about La Rambla and " La Via de l'Alzina " (the 8b route You tried to on-sight after You climbed La Rambla) ?

19 - Which is the best rock You saw and/or climbed ?

" PERSONAL" questions:

20 - at the beginning, how was born Your desire to climb ?

21 - And now ? Can You explain why climbing is so fun for You ? Which is the most important thing in Your climbing ?

22 - Which are Your main interests if not sport ?

23 - You are a student: what do You learn from the rock that school doesn't teach You ?

Adam Ondra Zatopek
Caricato da berlang

(Adam on Zatopek, 8b+, Grotta dell'Areonauta, Italy)

24 - If You really would have the magic wand:
would You just climb all the time ?
Which place on earth You would choose to go live and climb ?
Or You would prefer just travel around the world ?

25 - Is there someone special You want to thank for helping You in reaching Your climbing goals ? How much were/are important Your parents and/or family to realize Your goals ?

26 - Would You like to visit some crags here around in Lombardia ?


The "final" route, european championships, Prague, 18 mai 2008



So, Adam,

that's all from me:
many questions, I know, too many if added to questions from others, but You are totally free to select the questions You like to answer OR NOT and take all Your time, MONTHS too :-)

Thank You again.

If You like, for sure You can upload here some other photos from Yours.
Sorry for my poor questions and my bad english.

Thanks in advance also to all cooperative and partecipative climbers for their questions.

Anybody who likes to translate this interview in other languages is welcome.
Just write in the comments space Your translations.

If You want to put this interview in Your sites or blogs ... of course, You can do it: please, just put the link to this 9b source, thanks !


Ciao from Italy !
:-)

P.s. photos from Mr. Petr Piechowicz, thank You Petr !

[9b]

Adam in Australia.

[Adam Ondra]

I am sorry for lonf break while answering...

28 - In your opinion, which are the reasons You don't feel fear on the contrary of me (and I guess other beginning climbers) ?
I think it definately depens on experiences and time, you have climbed. I do not think the answer will not be hidden in being young... But one thing is true. If there is an objective danger (some ground-fall potential), it is better to young :-)

29 - How is the mental "route" and/or attitude to transform my fears in fun ?
To climb, climb and climb. Especially it is good to climb a lot onsight, to feel secure and safe on the rock. Furthermore, if you climb very hard on your limits, you have to focused very much. And if you are focused on certain level (for me it is also to get into such state), you think about nothing but following move while you climb.

do you think there are enough girl in the climbing community ? I do not think so. But I think i got better now, if you compare numbers of women on competitions 10 years ago and in presence. But hard to know how many of them are climbers really by their souls as well as by the body...

during your climbing days do you spend time with people of your age ?
Well, I have admit that quite rarely. I do train sometimes with Martin Stranik, who is 18, but in general I climb with older guys. The competitions are the only event where I meet people of my age, but quite a few of them go on the rocks often.



what climbers (present , past of future, famous or unknown) are of most inspiration to you ?
For sure Wolfgang Gullich for pernament pushing limits,. From present climbers I admire Tommy Caldwell, because he is pushing really in bouldering as well as in multipitces. His one-day ascent of two routes on El Cap is unbelievable. The same is forn the free ascender of The Nose, Lynn Hill. I think they must really love climbing. A very inspirational climber is Manolo, I would love to climb so long in such shape too in future.

[9b]

Hi Adam,
thank You for Your answers !
They are very important for us climbers, but no problem at all for Your break:
Your climbing and school are important too :-)
Ciao big Adam !

[Adam Ondra]

33. which are you favourite climbing places in Czech ?
anywhere to recommend ?
Yeah, at first, I would recommend our sandstone for everyone who wants to have some unusual experince. Traditional routes are next to bolted ones, but prepare your mind also in bolted ones. The best choice for quite well bolted route is Labak and Teplice. It is really pure beauty. On the other hand, you will not find there any huge massive overhangs Rodellar style. Mostly vertical and bouldery although the routes might be very long! Just that chalk, but I think some knows this story and if not, try to google it. Then here is one limestone area Moravsky kras, but I think it is not worth of it to go there through the half of Europe. But we are enourmously happy to have it though. Then some bouldering places (Petrohrad - every spring session for 200 people called Petrohradské PADání - recommendable, Modrín, or Bor).

34. a new climbing location you would like to visit ?
For sure some exciting areas far way like Rocklands, Grampians, Castle Hill and something in U.S.

35. any hobby/interest outside climbing ?
I used to do snowboarding a lot, but lately climbing is leading more and more. Otherwise I like reading magazines (not just climbing and never tabloids) and lying in bed and doing nothing.

36) would you like to share with us the emotion of the first day you went to climb ?
Oh, it is so old story and I was very little, thus I do not even remember. I was 3, maybe 4. But I did not find climbing much interesting... I climbed maybe one route a year. But I loved playing under the crag. And we used go cycling beside climbing. I got mad from climbing when I was 6.

[Adam Ondra]

9 - I see You are a " traveller climber ": how much is important to travel for Your climbing ?
For me it is fantastic addition to climbing. To see new places is next to realizing my climbing dreams and goals. And also, I have to travel quite much for clinbing. We have some rocks in Czech Republic, but if you want good concentration of hard routes, your the nearest target is Frankenjura (at least 450 km). If you go for a weekend, that is quite a long way.

10 - Did You know many foreigner climbers in Your climbing travels ? How was Your feeling with them, their culture and languages ?
I am not very communicative type of person. I met a lot of people at rocks, but usully I did not take chance to discover their culture. Ecuador is exception. We did not rent a car there, thus we were left on help of the local climbers. And they were so friendly nice to us... It was unbelieveable. Thanks to them once again.
11 - How much is important for You and Your climbing practicing foreigner languages ?
For me the English is right now absolutely essential. On the other hand, the most important is not be scared of talking, even if you cannot speak very well. And as I typed above, I am not communicative especially in Czech, so it used be big deal for me, but I hope it is getting better and better.

[9b]

Yes, no fear to be OPEN and INTERACTIVE !
Definitely 9b lifestyle ;-)

[Adam Ondra]

12 - Do You know some of the climbing pioneers and legends ? Which inspire You the most ? Why ?
I think I know a lot about whole history of sportclimbing. My "bible" was the book "Rockstars" (Heinz Zak 1995), which I still have in memory very well. I would recommend everybody to read who have never done yet. Very ispirational. And I have already in previous questions who is particularly. (Wolfgang Gullich, Lynn Hill, I could potentionally add Kurt Albert)

13 - Which are the climbers in the world who are now inspiring and impressing You the most ? Why ? As I typed above, Tommy Caldwell, and I admire all notorious competitiors (like Tomas Mrazek) that they have so strong mind to go on competitions for such long time. I do not think it is ispiring, but it is impressing for sure.

14 - You recently said: “definitely todays hardest routes are far below the human maximum”, then I read You think is possible to climb 9c after work and 9a onsight.
In which way You imagine a 9c route ? Oh, man it is so easy to imagine some 9c. Just take 9a route with 8B bloc in the end (and no rest of course). Hard to imagine one can do it nowadays, but it should be possible to make all moves, shouldn't be? And once you do all moves, you might be able to redpoint it.
Which grade do You think is possible to reach in bouldering ? I think human body still can do much harder moves. Sport climbing have developed 30 years, what short time in comparison with other sports.
In sport multipitches ? Wow, just imagine 10 8c pitches above each other. That would be tremendous and I think more worthy 9b+.
In general you can never say some absolute boarder of human possibilities, in any sport. Always somebody even stronger can come.

15 - You said now You would like to climb some bouldery 9as and we see You are " training " (!?) on super fast super hard boulder ascents, in Melloblocco too.
After Action Directe and other bouldery 9a routes, which other routes are You interested to climb ? Biographie-Realization ? Coupe de grace ? Neanderthal ? Akira ? Ali Hulk sit start ? Chilam Balam ? Which other routes are You dreaming ? (updated sep. '08: Jumbo love ? :-)
Or You prefer to open a new project from Yours close to Your house ?
Realization, Coup de grace, Neanderthal and Jumbo Love tempt me to try, what I cannot say about the rest. They have the line and are magnetific from the first glanc. That is what tempts me the most. But If I spent a lot of time in one route, I would really be focused on something near my home. Though here is not much of space for bolting new routes in Moravsky Kras, one can ALLWAYS find here some space for 9bs...

[9b]

[Adam Ondra]

16 - What do You think about the proposal to share and confirm a 9b route ? ;-)
Good idea, heeh. Why not whether shape and conditions will be excellent.

17 - I read You said: “ Terribly hard is to compare endurance routes with bouldery ones, so one cannot compare Moravian Karst and Spain too much. Generally I think following:
in Spain you need only power and knowledge of how to depump on a jug (some better technique makes it only a bit easier).
In the Frankenjura you need brutal power (a lot more than in Spain), you have to figure out how to climb it.
And in Karst you need power, learn how to climb it and in addition you have to be able to stand on slippery footholds.
In the conclusion it looks that you feel the same in every route with the only difference - in Spain you do on 2nd attempt, in Jura on 10th one, in Karst on 20th.. ":
if You do two routes of the "same" grade and to climb the first one You need 2 tries (updated nov. 08), the second one 20 tries ... I guess the second route is ... harder than the first one ... is it right ? One million dollars question ...
Hey, it is not that clear. It depens a lot on the fact whether you have beta or not. In Spain, it does not depend on that so significantly as in Frankenjura. So model situation, I did some route of tricky caracter on 20th go, but If I had the beta, I could do that maybe 5th go. And other thing I must mention. There is diffence between 2nd and 20th go, but there is radically smaller difference between 5th and 20th go. It is so much about luck especially in bouldery routes. I spent on many routes more time than I had expected, however I did it almost second go, but in following attemps something just went wrong. Conditions, beeing tired...

18 - What about vertical, technical, fingerpower "old school" walls ?
May You write here Your sensations about La Rambla and " La Via de l'Alzina " (the 8b route You tried to on-sight after You climbed La Rambla) ?
It was in joke of course, though I must say it was very hard. The main reason why everybody says that they are hard for on-sights. And we are again at the importance of knowing beta. And also everybody finds them because most of them train in steep terrain. That is just logical that if you spend 10% of climbing (or training) in verticals, you will hardly do your the hardest route there. I have to get used to a lot on this type of climbing, when I climb long just on plastic or steep rocks. But I hope I am not that bad in it, because WoGu is just about dancing on rock except for a few meters.

19 - Which is the best rock You saw and/or climbed ?
Every type of the rock is unigue, has advanteges and disadventages. I like the limestone the most probably, it destroys skin less than granit or sandstone. I love the grey limestone In Schleier Wasserfall with tremendous big and sloppery pockets. (attention, there is orange limestone in sector White Winds, which one of the worst I have ever seen)

[Adam Ondra]

20 - at the beginning, how was born Your desire to climb ?
It just came naturally. I was with my parents at the crag and there was a big envy from side that i did not climb too. But I was not sufficiently tall, so I did not become obsessed first time. There was radical change in summer 1999, when I was tall enough to climb at least some routes of 6th degree.
21 - And now ? Can You explain why climbing is so fun for You ? Which is the most important thing in Your climbing ?
There are a few various reasons why I am so obsessed. At first, I can't imagine anything else what I would do in my free time. To spend a weekend at home? What a horrible, maybe even spooky imagination for me. On the other hand, I like if I can sit at home for while and do absolutely nothing, but it will get boring pretty fast. But what is the more important? The fact I feel so much free on the rock. The best feelings come in the end of climbing when I climb some easier route to warm down. It is sometimes like getting into my own world, all moves are absolutely automatical and move up is fluid. It is something undiscribeable. I never get into this state when it is raining or it is indoor. It depens a lot on whole natural feature and weather. There are some memorable moments while climbing hard route, but I do not enjoy the climbing while climbing on my boarders, you have the only target to beat the top. Pushing the limits is also reason why I climb, but not that big. I would probably climb too if it existed in climbing just focus on hard ascents, but I would not love it the same for sure.
22 - Which are Your main interests if not sport ?
Oh, hard to say. Sometimes I take newspaper and find out what is new. I would play board game a lot if somebody would like play with me :-)... Then sometimes watching Simpsons, playing games on mobile (just when I have really nothing to do and out of home, playing on PC at home is waste of time).