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Grading, credibility, old school, new generation

Alex Huber:

"And it was up to 1995 that „Action Directe“ was considered to be 8c+.
Since then grading became confuse and predominantly it had been created by the proposal of the grade 9b.
Ben Moon still was there and he tried to convince the community that the proposal of the grade 9b is destructive as there hasn´t been even a confirmed 9a in the world.
But the discipline was lost with a lasting effect.
Beginning with 1995, the grading became softer, and softer, and softer…
It slowly began with the change of the grade of “Action Directe” from 8c+ to 9a.
Today, “Action Directe” is the most famous of all the 9a-routes and therefore it is the reference for that grade.
The funny thing is that today “Action Directe”, which had been 8c+ originally, is one of the hardest 9a-routes in the world!!!
It just shows, how far the overgrading went over the years – I guess that 90% of the modern high-end-routes are heavily overgraded if you compare these routes with the benchmark-route “Action Directe”.
Regarding my personal climbing track record, the softening of the grading had some effects: most of my first ascents of the years got upgraded and amongst all the others “Weiße Rose” from 8c+ to 9a/9a+ and “Open Air” from 9a to 9a+.
Thanks to today´s softer grading, “Open Air” or maybe even “Weiße Rose” became the first confirmed route of the grade 9a+.
When I see the news, then “Jumbo Love” is considered to be the most difficult sportclimb today.
And well, this assumption is reasonable! We know the skills of Sharma, which he demonstrated with ascents of “Realisation”, “La Rambla”, “Es Pontas”, “Golpe del Estado”, “Neanderthal”, ….
The funny thing is that, when I look through all the magazines, above “Jumbo Love” are still registered the routes “Chilam Balam” and “Akira”!??!?!
." Continue here.

Dani Andrada:

(Google translate here)
" Esta semana leí un articulo de Alex Huber en y a pesar de que me gusta mantenerme al margen de este tipo de debates, decidí mostrar mi punto de vista, el cual a le mejor no compartirá todo el mundo.
Para empezar, creo que muchas paginas web están destrozando la esencia de la escalada, creando piques, que en la mayoría de los casos ni esisten.
Por otro lado tenemos muchas mentiras que llegan a traves de estos medios, que no son capacitados hacer ningun tipo de revision, al publico totalmente inocente y respetuoso.
De esta manera se crea una imagen de "verdad objetiva" totalmente imaginatoria, se construye el rankig de escalada absolutamente sin credibilidad, aunque la mayoría de escaladores saben lo que hay.
En cuanto a las vías y la graduación, pienso que hay de las fáciles y duras en todos los sitios del mundo.
Si, puedo estar de acuerdo con que las vías técnicas de antes eran más duras.
Pero, por la sencilla razón, de que ahora se escala más en desplome.
Respecto a las vías sin repetición, yo también tengo vías sin repetir.
Pero sin embargo pienso que puede ser, no solo por su dureza, si no por que igual simplemente no se prueban.
Es que, cuando hay un sitio como St. Linya con 21 vías de 9a hasta 9b de buena calidad, con muy buen acceso, buen tiempo casi siempre y la mayoría de los escaladores mas fuertes del planeta pasan por ahí a escalar a menudo, parece más normal que se repitan muchas vías no?!
También creo, que cuando se habla de algunas vías y se hacen acusaciones, estaría bien si al menos has probado las vías o al mínimo estar debajo de ellas...
En cuanto a "Action direct" 9a?
." Continue here (espanol). Here in english.

Bjorn Pohl @ UKClimbing

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Sell on 9b your climbing topos to other world climbers !

Posted by 9b on March 1, 2013 at 4:00pm 0 Comments

27cragsclimbervoice8a and many others are amazing sites, but sometimes, expecially if you worked a lot to envision, bolt, clean routes or boulders, you want to monetize a little your efforts.

9b can help you in this aim.


As you can see here, in 9b there are many " topo groups ".


You can add a discussion in every "topo group".

In your discussion you can edit and publish your own climbing topoguide, as a "paywall", a "destination page", requiring climbers their payment by credit card or paypal to access and read, even on SMARTPHONES (iphones, android phones, ...)


After having paid, climbers can see, save and print your climbing topoguide.


In this discussion you can add:


1) PHOTOS regarding one specific SECTOR (of routes or bouldering, dws lines)


a) "PHOTO topo":

It's very easy to edit a photo topo:

- upload a photo of a rock in a topo group discussion

- drawn the lines

- write names and grades (an example…



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