OPEN INTERVIEW to ... ADAM ONDRA

" Es como de otro planeta ".
( It's as if he's from another planet ).

Dani Andrada dixit.




All climbers know who is Adam Ondra.
His palmares at 8a.nu ( routes and boulders ), at his age, is just crazy.

" It's finished for us guys ! This kid is the new school " Tony Lamiche said at Melloblocco.
He is re-defining sport climbing standards.
And breaking barriers.




Adam is also an open minded person, so he accepted a different kind of interview.
Why different ?
Because, WE, climbers, climbing journalists AND NOT, we all can ... write here our questions for him !

I was so happy when reading his following words:
" I totally agree with your questions and questions from you readers. That is for sure good idea to ask what climbers want to know. "
Thank You Adam :-) !


Lot of cooperative and partecipative power occurs to interview Adam, so, what would YOU ask to him ?

No problem if You are a 10-15 years old climber: You can write here Your questions, may be Yours will be the best ones !

Please, in order to help Adam, just give a number to Your questions between others, thanks.


(Adam on Martin Krpan 9a, Misja Pec)


Let's start.

Dear Adam,

first of all, THANK YOU !

here are my questions.

To answer the questions, You can register here, take Your profile as a kind of "pre-interview" and then write Your answers directly on comments' space of this post .

You can choose everything:

- the questions You like to answer or not
- when write Your answers
- if write all the answers together or not (may be the best is 1 answer a day, then another answer another day and so on).

It's totally up to You.




"WHY SO STRONG" questions:

1 - for sure You are a climbing wizard, do You like to be called " Harry Potter " :-) ?

2 - Which are Your secrets ? How did You improve so fast ?

3 - Cleverness, technical skills, weight, training, power of mind, travelling, age, ... etc, God ? :-): can You try to give a value, if not a percentage, to the various components, to explain us Your performances ?

4 - How is Your training ? Is it true that You don't use neither hanging board nor pan gullich ?

5 - How would You suggest to other climbers to train to have some good results ?

(Adam in Catalunya, Spain, 2007)


6 - Pete O'Donovan wrote about a new "dynamic technique": not just the " odd lunge, but move after move of calculated and accurate dynos ": what do you think about it ?
In Your opinion, is this so effective to minimize power expenditure ?

7 - On La Rambla, in order to reduce rope-drag, You missed out several of the clips on the upper section, risking big falls if You came off: it seems You like the “climb more clip less “ style :-) ! Isn'it ?


8 - Recently, You onsighted "The snatch" (7c) a serious highball in Cresciano: how do You fight (and win ...) against Your fears and risks ?



"TRAVELLING & languages CLIMBING " questions:


9 - I see You are a " traveller climber ": how much is important to travel for Your climbing ?

10 - Did You know many foreigner climbers in Your climbing travels ? How was Your feeling with them, their culture and languages ?

(Adam in Santa Linya, Spain, speaking with Chris Sharma and climbing "Fuck the system", 9a)

11 - How much is important for You and Your climbing practicing foreigner languages ?


"Past, present, FUTURE" questions:

12 - Do You know some of the climbing pioneers and legends ? Which inspire You the most ? Why ?

13 - Which are the climbers in the world who are now inspiring and impressing You the most ? Why ?

14 - You recently said: “definitely todays hardest routes are far below the human maximum”, then I read You think is possible to climb 9c after work and 9a onsight.
In which way You imagine a 9c route ?
Which grade do You think is possible to reach in bouldering ?
In sport multipitches ?


( "final" boulder, 7c+/8a, on the outdoor bouldering competition Hudy Boulder Cup 2007)

15 - You said now You would like to climb some bouldery 9as and we see You are " training " (!?) on super fast super hard boulder ascents, in Melloblocco too:

After Action Directe and other bouldery 9a routes, which other routes are You interested to climb ? Biographie-Realization ? Coupe de grace ? Neanderthal ? Akira ? Ali Hulk sit start ? Chilam Balam ? Which other routes are You dreaming ? (updated sep. '08: Jumbo love ? :-)
Or You prefer to open a new project from Yours close to Your house ?


16 - What do You think about the proposal to share and confirm a 9b route ? ;-)

17 - I read You said: “ Terribly hard is to compare endurance routes with bouldery ones, so one cannot compare Moravian Karst and Spain too much. Generally I think following:
in Spain you need only power and knowledge of how to depump on a jug (some better technique makes it only a bit easier).
In the Frankenjura you need brutal power (a lot more than in Spain), you have to figure out how to climb it.
And in Karst you need power, learn how to climb it and in addition you have to be able to stand on slippery footholds.
In the conclusion it looks that you feel the same in every route with the only difference - in Spain you do on 2nd attempt, in Jura on 10th one, in Karst on 20th.. "
:
if You do two routes of the "same" grade and to climb the first one You need 2 tries (updated nov. 08), the second one 20 tries ... I guess the second route is ... harder than the first one ... is it right ? One million dollars question ...


("Sanjski par", 9a, Misja pec, Slovenia)

18 - What about vertical, technical, fingerpower "old school" walls ?
May You write here Your sensations about La Rambla and " La Via de l'Alzina " (the 8b route You tried to on-sight after You climbed La Rambla) ?

19 - Which is the best rock You saw and/or climbed ?



" PERSONAL" questions:

20 - at the beginning, how was born Your desire to climb ?

21 - And now ? Can You explain why climbing is so fun for You ? Which is the most important thing in Your climbing ?

22 - Which are Your main interests if not sport ?

23 - You are a student: what do You learn from the rock that school doesn't teach You ?


(Adam on Zatopek, 8b+, Grotta dell'Areonauta, Italy)

24 - If You really would have the magic wand:
would You just climb all the time ?
Which place on earth You would choose to go live and climb ?
Or You would prefer just travel around the world ?

25 - Is there someone special You want to thank for helping You in reaching Your climbing goals ? How much were/are important Your parents and/or family to realize Your goals ?



26 - Would You like to visit some crags here around in Lombardia ?


The "final" route, european championships, Prague, 18 mai 2008



So, Adam,

that's all from me:
many questions, I know, too many if added to questions from others, but You are totally free to select the questions You like to answer OR NOT and take all Your time, MONTHS too :-)

Thank You again.

If You like, for sure You can upload here some other photos from Yours.
Sorry for my poor questions and my bad english.




Thanks in advance also to all cooperative and partecipative climbers for their questions.

Anybody who likes to translate this interview in other languages is welcome.
Just write in the comments space Your translations.

If You want to put this interview in Your sites or blogs ... of course, You can do it: please, just put the link to this 9b source, thanks !


Ciao from Italy !
:-)

P.s. photos from Mr. Petr Piechowicz, thank You Petr !

Views: 2739

Comment by 9b on January 13, 2009 at 10:35pm
Interesting questions from Sonnie Trotter regarding Adam too:
" When a child prodigy is “discovered” for lack of a better word, is it because they want it more, because they train harder, or have better body awareness, or is just simply because their body allows them to be better than everyone else, they just are?

Maybe its rapid development, they have access to better cliffs, training facilities and coaches?

Sure, all climbers work hard and develop our skills over time and we hope to reach our potential, the way Chris has done with his new 5.15’s, but what about the early years, I mean after only a few short years Chris was the best climber in North America, beating everyone who had twice the skills and twice the experience. What is that?
How much of our sport (or sport in general) is based on genetics?

I read in a ski magazine that the average retirement age for a professional free skier is 25, and that’s OLD. I invite you to join me in this discussion, I would love to hear other comments if you have any.
Where these climbers born strong or did they develop it ?
"

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The really first ever film with Adam Ondra: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?p=PL80AA5B5B12EB7BFD

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Sell on 9b your climbing topos to other world climbers !

Posted by 9b on March 1, 2013 at 4:00pm 0 Comments

27cragsclimbervoice8a and many others are amazing sites, but sometimes, expecially if you worked a lot to envision, bolt, clean routes or boulders, you want to monetize a little your efforts.

9b can help you in this aim.

 

As you can see here, in 9b there are many " topo groups ".

 

You can add a discussion in every "topo group".

In your discussion you can edit and publish your own climbing topoguide, as a "paywall", a "destination page", requiring climbers their payment by credit card or paypal to access and read, even on SMARTPHONES (iphones, android phones, ...)

 

After having paid, climbers can see, save and print your climbing topoguide.

 

In this discussion you can add:

 

1) PHOTOS regarding one specific SECTOR (of routes or bouldering, dws lines)

 

a) "PHOTO topo":

It's very easy to edit a photo topo:

- upload a photo of a rock in a topo group discussion

- drawn the lines

- write names and grades (an example…

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