9a+/b F.A. for Adam Ondra ! "Marina superstar": 1st 9a+/b in Italy, where if not in Sardegna ?

(An old nice photo by ?)

" Fight is over !
Yesterday I did Marina superstar.
Luckily, today totally wet.
The grade I am not sure, easy 9b, hard 9a+.
Have to take my time to think about it.
"

Wednesday, 21 of october, this sms from Adam arrived to my mobile :-)

Few days before, with the specific aim to free his 9b project in Sardegna, he was starting his 8 days trip, from 16 to 24, travelling to explore his own new limit on rock.

(Just "a little" overhanging ! Photo by Vojtech Vrzba)

(picture by Laurens Machiel, taken the 15 of october 2008)


Photo by Laurens Machiel, taken the 15 of october 2008



To "work" the second part of the route, from the second anchor to the top, has been a fast process.

(photo by Vojtech Vrzba)

After two days "working" the route, Adam's strong fingers were typing the following sms:

"I'm falling in the middle and from there I did to the top ;-) 3 hard moves. Tomorrow rest."
fontanamare
(A nice place to rest, Fontanamare, few kilomoters from "Marina superstar")

After one rest day, an unforeseen event at monday 19:
Adam accidentally broke an hold before the crux ...
Good news for him: the route has become ... harder ! :-)

(photo by Vojtech Vrzba)

The day after, 20/10/2009, Adam did his hardest, first ascent.

(photo by Vojtech Vrzba)

4 days for the first "easy 9b, hard 9a+" proposal in Italy (Sardegna).

Today Adam is writing on his 8a.nu page:
"So happy to have some really hard FA! Well, I am not sure about the grade. Definately my hardest yet, but probably not 9b, thus I go for 9a+/b. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. Beautiful 35m line in very steep cave. It took me 4 days this year and 3 goes last year. Thanks to Matteo Marini for bolting and to whole Cagliari!"
(Are "slash grades" useful ?)

(photo by Vojtech Vrzba)

Adam has a very fast climbing style, "an alert mind that allows quick decision making".

For sure speedy is for him a key factor and, for his ascents, bigger value: You can be lucky one or even more times, but almost everytime ?
Ondra style on "Marina superstar" was super fast too.
It's funny ... also "Speed" (Voralpsee, 8c+) is one of the his most favourite routes !



In the past, 9b was proposed for:
1 - Akira
2 - Alihulk sit extension
3 - Jumbo love
4 - Delincuente natural
5 - Golpe de estado

Salamandre is signed as 9a/b on Fred Roughling' site.
Rouhling gave 9a/b Empreintes too.

Chilam Balam was proposed as 9b+.


Interesting to note that Alex Huber wrote his own opinions about which could be the "perfect" climbing background to gain the position to propose the 9b grade, without risks to loose some credibility.
Suunto_climbing_Alex_Huber_4
Recently, Alex confirmed his point of view and respect for climbers such as Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra.

(Adam and Alex, photo by Michael Meisl)

Now (first time in sport climbing history ?) Adam can propose the slash 9a+/b grade after having climbed:

- 4 x 9a+ (Ramonet's La rambla, Huber's Open air, Sharma's Papichulo, Bocks' Corona)

- 25 x 9a

- two 9as second go (even if described as "soft")

- one 8c+ (8c for Adam) on sight

- many 8c+ 2nd go and 8c onsight.



What else ?!

During his stay in Sardegna, Adam managed 2 other 8c+ first ascent:

And he onsighted seven routes from 8a to 8b.


Compliments Adam !
Thank You for giving us such an inspiration, to climb our ... 3c+ too :-)
Maybe will You write Your own report about Your first 9a+/b here in Your Mag ?




Marina, in italian language, is a name and an adjective, both connected to the sea (sea = mare).
Fontanamare

The sea is perfect for rest days in Sardegna ... :-)
Fausta

Jokes apart, Sardegna is one of the best climbing destinations in the world, where You can enjoy sport and trad climbing, bouldering, deep water soloing, big walls.
cala mariolu
(Cala Mariolu, one of the many sardinian places to explore)

Cala Luna
(Cala Luna)

Perfect climbing conditions are now (as Adam's ascent prooves), but in Sardegna You can climb in july and august too:
in august 2005 Caroline Ciavaldini climbed "Il vecchio e il mare", her first 8b on sight, at sea level.
IMG_5030
Caroline was lucky to find the right wind/humidity, in any case, at an altitude from 650 to 1.000 meters, You can choose overhanging (Su Telargiu, lower Tana delle Tigri) and more vertical walls (Jerzu and Ulassai, Serra oseli, Genna Croce).
Of course Ceuse or Austrian crags are colder in summer, but they have much more rain too.



Yes, this post is about Adam's hardest route, love, for climbing and for Sardegna ! :-)

(Masua, very close to "Marina")

Views: 1827

Comment by 9b on November 2, 2009 at 1:15pm
Comment by isidro on November 7, 2009 at 9:34am
bautiful place for climb!!!

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