Bernabè Fernandez: OPEN discussion

[9b]

Bernabè Fernandez is going to publish here in his new blog his very interesting climbing life.

Soon, You can read and participate here at a CONVERSATION with him, something like this (discussion with Andreas is still open), or Adam Ondra interview:

more than a formal interview, a conversation open to ALL climbers and climbing journalists/web editors.

(Bernabè on his artwork: Chilam balam. Photo by David Munilla)

 

 

Every climber and climbing journalist/web editor is welcome to ask something to Bernabè, in english and spanish.

Just wait Bernabè's answer to the previous question, before writing your question here as a comment.

 

The idea is simple.

Imagine to "speak" with Bernabè for a long period, for example 2 months.

(Bernabè on Chilam Balam, photo by David Munilla ??)

 

 

(If you are not already a member of this site, sign up, then) You write your first question, here as a comment, in english or spanish.

Bernabè, when he wants, when he has time (it's always better to be, for example ... outside on a rock, than in front of a pc ...), writes his own answer in spanish (9b editing will translate it in english).

(photo by David Munilla)

 

After that, another climber can write the second question and Bernabè answers, always when he prefers.

And so on.

Of course Bernabè is totally free to choose which question to answer.

 

Yes, Adam Ondra is going soon to climb Chilam Balam.

(Adam "training" for Chilam balam in Obrint el sistema)

 

So this conversation with Bernabè will last at least after Adam will have climbed the route :-)

 

 

 

(Chris Sharma trying Chilam Balam in 2006. Photo by David Munilla)

 

 

 

ALL THE CLIMBERS who made climbing history AND NOT are very welcome to join this conversation.

It would be  like to be all together in a bar, in front of a beer.

(Photo by Daila Ojeda)

 

 

Like a kind of "party", even if on internet and not necessarly all at the same time.

 

Forever loving our ... more than a "sport" ;-)

[9b]

Bernabe', what do you think about what Chris Sharma recently said:

" Usually I'm trying hard routes and it is difficult to climb alone one step to the next level.
It's harder to make first ascents than repeat, you have more merit because you have to have great vision, because not even know if it is within human limits. "

How do you see the exploration of human limits in climbing in the past ?

And now ?

[Erik Ljungmann]

Spanish:

genial el ver las fotos de tí con Adam. Como evoluciona la escalada! A mediadios de Junio estoy viajando a Cartagena, cerca de Murcia, por trabajo, Quería saber si conoces escuelas de escalada por la zona que me recomiendes. Por último, quedo a la espera de la actualización de tu blog!

 

English:

great to see photos from you and Adam after his repeat! I wanted to know if you could recommend me some areas near Cartagena (Murcia). By the way, I'll be waiting for your blog's updates!

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

respecto a lo comentado por Chris, esta totalmente en lo cierto, En la época en la que yo empece lo mas que había en Andalucía era 7c y a los 13 años se me acabaron todas las vías, tuve que empezar a equipar era un proceso mas lento para  evolucionar en el grado ya que no elegías a la carta las vías que querías hacer, pero para mi gusto mas bonito y creativo.

Desde que nació la escalada estamos viendo como se llegan a los limites ya establecidos con relativa facilidad y rapidez pero una vez llegado ahí el proceso es mas lento porque tienes que crear el camino que aun no existe .

En el caso de Adam espero ver el 9c o quien sabe a lo mejor el 10, pero lo que si esta claro es que eso lo tendrá que crear  el, así que lo único que le puedo desear es mucha suerte !

English:

regarding the comments by Chris, it is absolutely right.

In the time when I started to climb the hardest route in Andalusia was 7c and when I was 13 I already climbed all the routes, I had to start to equip new ones, it was a slower process to evolve in the grade, because I could not choose on the paper the routes I wanted to climb, but for me nice and creative.

Since climbing was born,  we're seeing how is relatively easy and fast to reach the limits already established, but after you reached them, the process is slower because you have to create the path that doesn't already exist.

In the case of Adam I hope to see the 9c or, who knows, maybe 10, but for sure just him can create this, so the only thing I can wish is good luck !

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

hola Erik no te puedo recomendar mucho de Murcia para escalar ya que he escalado poco por allí, pero hablan muy bien de Leiva.

un saludo.

 

English:

Hi Erik I can't recommend you so much about  climbing around Murcia, as I climbed there just a while, but they speak well about Leiva.
Greetings. 

 

(photo © 9b)

[Pablo Almaraz]

Spanish:

Hola Bernabé!
Tuve la suerte de ver a Adam Ondra el dia después de encadenar Chilam Balam, haciendo la sesión de fotos y demás; fue espectacular verlo escalar con esa facilidad.

En mi opinión, que el escalador mas fuerte de la historia cote tu vía de 9b indica que estuviste bastante acertado en el grado, así que por mi parte te felicito por equipar y encadenar ésa vía en una época en la que nadie hacía nada parecido. Parece que después de todo es el primer 9b encadenado y confirmado de la historia !
Para mi, una de las grandezas de la escalada es poder viajar y conocer zonas nuevas.

Mi pregunta es:

¿No tienes planeado (si no lo has hecho ya) viajar a algunas zonas con vías de dificultad, como Santa Linya, Oliana, Siurana, etc., y probarte a ti mismo allí, repitiendo (o incluso equipando y abriendo) rutas punteras?

Si yo pudiese acercarme al grado que hacen los escaladores como tu, intentaría viajar por todo el mundo cuando pudiese!

Un saludo!

(Adam Ondra during the first ascent of Chilam Balam, photo © 9b)

 

English:

Hi Bernabè !
I was lucky enough to see Adam Ondra  the day after climbing Chilam Balam, doing the photo session and and other, it was amazing to watch him climbing so easily .

In my opinion, the fact that the strongest climber in climbing history graded 9b your route proves you were pretty successful in that grade, so my congratulations to you to have bolted and climbed that route in a time when nobody did anything similar.

After all, it seems Chilam Balam is the first climbed and confirmed 9b in all the history !
For me, one of the greatness of climbing  is going to travel and experience new areas.

My question is:

are you  planning (if you haven't already planned) to travel to some areas with difficult routes, such as Santa Linya, Oliana, Siurana, etc., and prove yourself there, repeating (or even equipping and opening )   leading routes  ?  

If I could get close to climb the grade  the climbers  like you climb, I would  travel around the world as soon as I could !

 Greetings!

 

[9b]

Ei Bernie,

speaking about Adam, to create in Andalucia a climbing path that doesn't already exist, would You like to cooperate with him in order to find together the perfect route as he described (not longer than 25/30 meters, very very hard from the first single move to the last one, without any rest) ? :-)

(Bernabè trying his 9a project, together with Adam on sighting La rubia)

It's so easy for both of you see together the 9c.

Then, ok, maybe just he will create 10 by himself ;-)

[Noemí García]

From a different angle, Bernabè trying his 9a project and Adam onsighting  La rubia:

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

Muchas gracias Pablo, respecto a tu pregunta hace muchos años viajaba mas para escalar sobre todo cuando me desplazaba  a las competiciones, que aprovechaba para ver zonas cercanas como Siurana entre otros muchos pero de esto hace unos 20 años.

Siempre he querido viajar mas y aun así lo he hecho cuando he podido pero no todo lo que he querido porque nunca he sido  profesional de la escalada y he tenido que trabajar.

Menos mal que tengo la suerte de tener muchas paredes en málaga que me han permitido equipar bonitos proyectos.

 

English:

Thank you very much Pablo, regarding your question many (about 20) years ago I traveled all over to climb, especially when I participated at competitions, an opportunity I used to see nearby areas such as Siurana among many others.

I've always wanted to travel more and so I did when I could, but not everything I wanted because I have never been a professional climber and I had to work.

At least I'm lucky to have many crags in Málaga which allowed me to equip beautiful projects.

[bernabe fernandez-canivell]

Spanish:

respecto a la pregunta de que si podría equipar una vía en Andalucia muy difícil como 9c o 10a, no creo que hubiera inconveniente en equiparla, pero lo que no se puede, es, elegir el grado exacto o la continuidad de los pasos explosivos ya que eso es algo que te da la roca.

Por otra parte yo siempre he equipado para hacer las vías y que las disfruten los demás después, nunca equipe una vía para una persona y si así lo hiciera tendría que tener alguna amistad con el.

Adam apenas lo conozco, lo felicite por el encadenamiento de la chilam y  hablamos unas pocas palabras, pienso que para algo así tendría que conocerlo mas .

 

English:

regarding the question related to bolting a 9c or 10a route in Andalucia, I don't think there are problems to equip it, but it's not possible to choose exactly the grade or continuity of explosive moves because that is something that just the rock can offer you.

On the other side, I've always equipped to climb the routes and let others enjoy them later, I never bolted a route just for one person and if I would do it, it would be better to have some friendship with that person.

I know Adam just a bit , I told him my congratulations for having climbed Chilam balam, we spoke together few words, I think for something like that, it would be better to know him more.

[9b]

Yeah, friendship is always better, but that perfect route will be "for one person" and for the future climbers :-)

The following video is about the process to create and realize the hardest line in the mountains:

Manolo is speaking (01.00) about having a dream, a bright or colourful intuition, out of routine, a vision, "is it possible ?".

And then pulling out from the rock this "3D" new line.

So You and/or others can climb it.

Do you think more or less is the same in sport climbing or do you see some differences between sport and alpine climbing ?

Are you interested in multipitches ? More traditional or sport climbing ?