9a boulder: the beauty of a challenge

Terranova, 8c+, 12 days

Gioia, 8c+, 11 days (F.A. in 2008)

Charon, 8c, 3 days and 30 minutes

Etlinge, 8b+ flash

(Esperanza, 8b, flash)

(Crown of Aragon, 8b flash)

Bouldering is ... climbing up !

No doubt "it's difficult, painful, not fun to get much further, unless the problems simply get longer".

(The wheel of life, F.A. 2004)

How many climbers in the world know how much is so incredibly difficult ?

Something that the others are not able even to imagine.

As it was for 9b.

"Why not climb a route then instead?

Sometimes the beginning of a route is without clipping bolts, as it is for AkiraAli hulk sit start extension and L'isola che non c'è.

On the other side, actually the most bouldery 9b could eventually be compared to a long 8c boulder, where the main difficulty is concentrated in just around 4 bolts.

(Masoniamoci, an 8b "roped boulder")

To get further in bouldering is and has always been useful to reach "the next level", explore new limits and grades in sport climbing.

(Hubble, 1990)

According to Daniel Woods, " The future in bouldering is hard to tell.

It will probably be in power-resistance boulder problems, connecting two V14s or V15s to reach the next level. It’s going to be very hard to find something that is just one or two pure hard power moves to create something that is V16."

So, even if is hard to predict, reasonably, the next level will be a long, maybe "roped" boulder.

If you can now imagine to start clipping after a long 8c+ boulder, to do some more moves and climb a "roped" 9a boulder,

at the same time, You could think something so crazy and now not rational like a long, not "roped" ... 9a "boulder" (or something in between a route and a boulder).

Even Adam, some days ago, before repeating Gioia, wrote to me "9a is out of bounds for now".

In the future ?

After many other 8c, 8c/+ and not still confirmed 8c+, with a long time effort, much more than 12 days, close to home, maybe ... ?

Maybe Daniel Woods, or Nalle Hukkataival ?

Or Paul Robinson:

" I feel it is my time to set a standard in bouldering and push this sport like others have before me and are doing at the moment ".

Or Adam Ondra, as it is and was for the routes:

"For me the most important things in climbing are challenge and beauty, but there is beauty in challenge itself ".


Suerte !

Views: 1648

Comment by 9b on January 12, 2012 at 9:13pm
Comment by 9b on July 28, 2012 at 2:06pm

" 9A boulder problem seems far away, I have to make bigger progress.

The fact that I did 8C+ in 12 days doesn't necessarily mean that I can do a 9A within for example two months.

It is a fairy tale and it doesn't work like that.

You don’t train while trying a hard route, you need a 100% rest before every single try, hence you need to rest a lot in general.

And within a longer period of time a some sort of regress is bound to take place. "

Adam Ondra

Comment by 9b on January 31, 2013 at 7:10pm

" I think a possible 8B sit start into an 8C, could be 9A?

Adam or Jan can do it but it is to hard for me."

Comment by 9b on February 16, 2013 at 11:27am
Comment by 9b on October 30, 2016 at 10:44pm

Nalle ! :-)

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Luna, like a dream

Posted by 9b on January 7, 2016 at 5:00pm 0 Comments

Italiano qui.

(photo by Mike Hill)







convince.jpg

 

Yes Yan.

 

At first, your idea was about going on bolting around Baunei.

 

Then, I wrote You the Dorgali Municipality is going to rebolt around Cala Gonone.

I gave you these informations: after…

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Giuliano Cameroni: strong fingers, a kind mother, 16 years old ...

Posted by 9b on February 13, 2014 at 7:30pm 0 Comments

... and a future of hard boulders and (short) routes !

 

 

 

 

35 minutes.

This is the driving distance between Giuliano's house and the closiest boulders.

Not so bad.

The only problem is that when you are 16 years old, You can't drive the car.

No worries, if you have a kind mother, problem is solved  :-)

She drives him to the rocks, so he can climb something like this, then, after bouldering, he takes the train to come back home.

 

Ciao Giuliano,

how are you so strong ?! How much do you train ?

CIAO :-)

I CLIMB ON BOULDERS ABOUT 4 TIMES A WEEK, ON PLASTIC NOT SO MUCH, WHEN IT RAINS

 

Where do you climb usually ?

I CLIMB IN TICINO, MAGIC WOOD, SUSTEN, ... SOMETIMES IN FONT AND DURING THE HOLIDAYS OUT OF EUROPE TOO.

 

Who are your bouldering friends ?

I CLIMB WITH FRIENDS FROM TICINO AND WALLIS. SOMETIMES WITH MY FATHER AND MY BROTHER.

 

 

How is Giuliano Cameroni as a climber…

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